Praga

The streets of this once-disreputable enclave are framed by 19th-century tenements and former warehouses that provide insight into prewar, precommunist Warsaw. Today, the area is becoming a hipster hot spot. Wander past the war-scarred facades to see old markets and churches interspersed with mural-painted courtyards, quirky museums, and chic eateries (bonus: prices are lower than in central Warsaw).

Praga features on many Warsaw sightseeing itineraries, from walking and biking tours that also stop by Old Town, to excursions showcasing the city’s historic side. Explore Praga and other quarters by retro minibus; unravel its WWII- and Soviet-era history by vintage car; or sample its cuisine or nightlife on a food or bar-hopping jaunt.

• With its turbulent past and creative vibe, Praga appeals to art, architecture, and history buffs.
• Many of Praga’s bars and art spaces lack street frontages or signs.

Praga is across the Vistula River from Warsaw’s Old Town—just walk across the Śląsko-Dąbrowski Bridge from Castle Square (plac Zamkowy). Convenient transport hubs include Warszawa Stadion train station and Dworzec Wileński subway and bus station. If you’re driving from central Warsaw, take the Świętokrzyski Bridge, which leads directly into Praga.

Praga tends to be busiest with both visitors and locals in late morning. The district’s galleries, restaurants, and shops are generally open all day; while its bars and clubs draw revelers till late, making it something of a party hub—especially on weekends.

Reminders of WWII are numerous in Praga. Many streets are still riddled with 75-year-old bullet holes, and punctuated by candlelit shrines to the Virgin Mary that were built as street chapels during the Nazi occupation. The district is the backdrop to scenes in the award-winning WWII movie The Pianist.