Phnom Sambok Pagoda
Krong Kracheh, Cambodia
On a twin-peaked hill outside Kratie, Phnom Sambok Pagoda is a traditional Buddhist monastery that houses an active meditation center and fragments of a temple that may date to the 7th century. A long staircase lined with colorful monk statues leads up to the pagoda, which offers epic views of the Mekong River and beyond on a clear day.
The basics
Some groups prearrange meditation training with the monks, who spend much of their time meditating in their huts and studying in the library. But most travelers visit Phnom Sambok Pagoda on a spontaneous trip from Kratie. The sculpture-lined stairs, colorful Buddha statues, and painted halls make for atmospheric photos, as does the ancient-seeming but entirely modern stone prasat tower that seems to levitate among the trees. Note that Phnom Sambok may occasionally be written as Phnom Sombok.
Things to know before you go
Phnom Sambok Pagoda will interest meditators, photographers, and travelers with time to kill in Kratie.
The temple monkeys are photogenic but can also be aggressive. Don’t even think about feeding them; in fact, avoid even carrying food.
There’s no admission charge for the pagoda.
The stairs are shallow and well-made, and most are shaded by trees, but there are a lot of them. Wear comfortable shoes and carry water.
Phnom Sambok Pagoda is a working monastery so modest dress is important. That means covering your shoulders, belly, chest, and legs. A T-shirt with long pants is fine.
As you would anywhere, ask before taking photos of the monks.
With all those steps, the pagoda is not suitable for travelers with mobility issues. Parents should opt for slings or back carriers over strollers.
How to get there
Phnom Sambok Pagoda sits about 6 miles (10 kilometers) north of Kratie town, just back from the banks of the Mekong. You need a Cambodian license to drive in Cambodia and there are no rideshares in Kratie, so your best bet is to charter a tuk-tuk, arrange a private driver, or hop on a tour if you can find one.
When to get there
Phnom Sambok Pagoda is usually open from sunrise to sunset. Late afternoon can be a charming time to visit: Cooler temperatures make the climb less sweaty, while the Mekong sunset views can be delightful.
Temple tourism around Kratie
Most travelers come to Kratie for the Irrawaddy dolphins, yet this sleepy, unspoiled rural area also offers the chance to soak up traditional Buddhist life. Wat Rokar Kandal is a lovely centuries-old temple with a gorgeously carved wood pediment and an atmospheric timber interior. Further afield, in the village of Sambar, Wat Sor Sor Mouy Roy, known as the 100-pillar temple, sprouts a forest of slender columns below its ornate eaves.
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