Pagsanjan Falls

Pagsanjan town licenses boatmen (bangcero) to operate the small canoes that ride upriver through the gorge to the waterfall, and prices are set centrally, per head. Fees reflect the effort involved in navigating a small boat upstream—this is not a cheap trip.

Unless you’re exploring the Mt. Banahaw region, you’ll likely visit Pagsanjan Falls from Manila. Rather than getting up at the crack of dawn to make the drive and then arranging boats on arrival, most visitors opt for the convenience of a tour. Most Pagsanjan Falls tours include hotel pickup and drop-off, lunch, a canoe ride, and a bamboo raft ride. A few budget Pagsanjan tours omit the rapids in favor of hiking or swimming and looking at the waterfall.

• The Pagsanjan Falls are a must for thrill-seekers and movie fans.

• Babies and children under 7 are not allowed to ride the boats to the falls.

• You’ll get wet. Bring a plastic bag or waterproof case for your phone and/or camera if they’re not waterproof.

• Your bangcero will expect a tip: 100 pesos is the standard amount.

• There is no disabled access to Pagsanjan Falls. People who seem frail, including older people, will not be allowed to ride.

One of the Philippines’ favorite waterfalls, Pagsanjan Falls are around 60 miles (97 kilometers) from Manila. Even leaving early and in a private vehicle, the drive takes over two hours. If you’d prefer a day trip rather than spending the night in the unremarkable town of Pagsanjan, your only options are tour, taxi, or drive. Most find a tour more convenient than driving through gridlock and arranging your own boat.

Also known as Magdapio Falls, the Pagsanjan Falls are one of Manila’s most popular weekend trips: on Saturdays, Sundays, and over the Easter period they can be insanely crowded. In terms of timing, look to balance high water, which creates rapids and makes the waterfall dramatic, with low water, which allows boatmen to navigate the river. Early in the wet season, between August and October, is the best time to visit.

Widely considered one of the greatest movies ever made,Apocalypse Now explores sanity and insanity against the background of the Vietnam War. Americans were unwelcome in Vietnam during the ’70s, so director Francis Ford Coppola chose the Philippines to shoot his movie. The culminating sacrifice scenes were filmed on the river that runs up to Pagsanjan Falls.

Yes, visitors can swim in the pool beneath the Pagsanjan Falls, but only in this area. Much of the journey to see the Pagsanjan Falls involves navigating rapids, which requires an experienced boatman to be done safely. Lake Yambo is an alternative for those keen to swim.

June to August is generally the best time to visit the Pagsanjan Falls, which is the start of the wet season. At this time of year, the boatmen are able to navigate the river, which is easier when water levels are low, but there’s also enough water to ensure the waterfall looks impressive.

The hike to Pagsanjan Falls takes about one hour each way. Along the hike, some sections are only accessible via ladders, so reasonable mobility is essential to get through these parts.

Safety is always considered when operating tours to the Pagsanjan Falls during the rainy season. If there’s too much water, tours might limit the route taken—avoiding the cave beneath the waterfall and the upper sections of rapids. If safety is a concern, tours may be canceled.

In the area around Pagsanjan Falls, visitors will find several other waterfalls, such as the Hulugan Falls and Aliw Falls to its south. To the east, travelers can head below ground to explore the Cavinti Underground River and Cave Complex. If you head west there are various lakes where you can swim, such as Yambo Lake.

Make sure you bring waterproof clothing and something to protect your belongings. You will need cash to pay and/or tip the boatmen. If you hope to swim below the waterfall, you’ll also need a towel and swimwear.