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Dahshur

Dahshur, Badrshein, Giza

Blissfully serene compared to the Giza Pyramids chaos, Dahshur’s desert sands were once home to an impressive 11 large pyramids. Today, two survive, the Bent Pyramid and the Red Pyramid, both built by Pharaoh Snefru around 4,500 years ago. Unusually, travelers can explore inside both of them, as well as a smaller side pyramid.

Snefru was a passionate builder and his Dahshur pyramids mark the evolution from step pyramids like the Pyramid of Djoser in Saqqara to true pyramids like the ones in Giza. The Bent Pyramid curves at the top because cracks appeared, forcing Snefru’s architects to change their plan. But they learned their lesson in time to build the Red Pyramid, Egypt’s first true pyramid and the model for Snefru’s son Khufu’s Great Pyramid of Giza. Shorter Dahshur tours typically include a stroll around the pyramids, a photo stop, and perhaps a camel ride; longer tours take you inside one or more pyramid.

*Less crowded than Giza, Dahshur is a great choice for photographers and Instagrammers looking for a pyramid picture without the touts and tourists. *The site is very exposed. Wear a hat and sunscreen even at cooler times of year. *Sandy terrain makes Dahshur a challenging choice for travelers who rely on wheelchairs, although a 4WD can get you up close to enjoy the views.

Dahshur lies in the desert, about 23 miles (37 kilometers) south of downtown Cairo, but just 4 miles (7 kilometers) from both Saqqara and Memphis, making it easy to visit all three in a day. There’s no public transport so most travelers join a tour or book a private driver.

The Dahshur pyramids are open seven days a week from morning until mid-afternoon (with shorter opening hours during the Islamic fasting month of Ramadan) and are rarely crowded. During summer, the midday heat can be intense.

As of early 2020, one affordable Dahshur admission ticket lets you go inside both the Red Pyramid and the Bent Pyramid—making it a great-value option compared to Giza, where entering a pyramid costs extra. Musty air and cramped, steep passageways are not to everyone’s tastes, while the interiors are unpainted and the treasures were looted long ago. But if you’re not claustrophobic, following pharaohs on their final journey is an eerie and very memorable experience.

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