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POINT OF INTEREST

Calanque d’En-Vau

Cassis, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

Calanque is the French word for “cove,” and Calanque d’En-Vau is one of the country’s many Mediterranean pockets. It's no wide, sandy crescent—instead, picture a small fjord, with towering white cliffs and sparkling, turquoise waters. Stony and gnarled, this serene spot between Cassis and Marseilles is an escape from the urban Riviera.

More than half a dozen calanques make up Calanques National Park, south of Marseilles. Calanque d’En-Vau is reminiscent of Eden, a paradise of sea-carved cliffs and shining waters, though pine trees and juniper add a desert-like edge. To reach Calanque d’En-Vau—one of the most well-loved coves—you'll take a roughly 90-minute hike along the coast (or inland). Once there, you'll share the space with visitors enjoying the beachy views and rock climbers tackling the cliffs.

  • Wear good hiking shoes. You’ll be traversing over loose rock, roots, and down steep inclines.

  • The main hiking path is marked with red and white stripes; the coastal path is in blue.

  • Despite the effort it takes to get there, expect crowds.

First off, you’ll need to get to Cassis or Calanque de Port-Miou, about 30 minutes from Marseilles. Both have hiking trails that first take you to Calanque de Port Pin (Cassis is further) and take somewhere between 60 and 90 minutes to walk, depending on your speed. From Calanque de Port Pin, where you can break up the trek with a swim, there are two hiking paths to Calanque d’en Vau, inland and coastal.

Calanque d’en Vau is often busy. To get there before the crowds, you’ll want to start rather early in the morning, right after sunrise. Going midweek or in winter will get you more elbow room, too. That being said, avoid inclement weather, as the hiking trails can be slippery and dangerous when wet.

While Calanque d’en Vau isn’t exactly summiting a mountain, only solid hikers should attempt the trek. You’ll want to devote several hours for the hiking portion—and the route takes a bit longer if you stick to the more scenic coastal path. Make sure you’re comfortable with loose rock and unlevel steps, and wear sturdy shoes and gear suitable for a workout.

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