Sarasota once held the title of Florida’s number one tourist destination. Sure, these days Orlando might claim that spot with Walt Disney World Resorts and Universal Orlando Resort. The beaches are a close second, but did you know there’s an interesting bit of history that accompanies the beachside attractions of Sarasota? In addition to the walkable downtown and kayak tours through the mangroves, Sarasota has a strong connection to the circus.
I first learned about Sarasota’s past when I became interested in circus arts. In 1927, John Ringling moved the winter home of the Ringling Brothers & Barnum and Bailey circus to Sarasota, and the city became the main draw for visitors to Florida. Touring through America, Ringling promoted the town off the Gulf Coast, and he made the new winter home an attraction by selling tickets to rehearsals, giving visitors a behind-the-scenes look.
It wasn't just the tourists either; locals rallied behind the show and gave everyone aboard the Ringling Brothers’ train a big send-off every year at the start of the performance season. Performers also made Sarasota their home and became part of the community.
Today, you can visit The Ringling estate and tour Ca’ d’Zan, the opulent home of John Ringling and his wife, Mable. The couple's collection of art is displayed in The Ringling Museum of Art, but my favorite attraction at The Ringling is The Circus Museum.
1. The Circus Museum
The Circus Museum opened in 1948 with displays of items donated by local circus families. Entering the museum now, you'll be charmed by colorful lithographic posters advertising shows and featuring an array of acts.
Glittering costumes of performers past and props are a must-see. Boldly featured is the suit worn by Harold Ronk, ringmaster of Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Baily Circus for 30 years. Glamourous costumes and feather headpieces worn by aerialists and trick pony riders, as well as items used by clowns, are on display. The most notable prop is the silver-painted cannon that shot daring performers across the big top.
An oversized timeline about American circuses showcases P. T. Barnum, details the Golden Age of Circus and talks about other touring shows like Buffalo Bill’s Wild West show. Learn about how the circuses packed up and traveled from town to town first in wagons that were beautiful attention-getting pieces that featured paintings, gilded carvings and fancifully carved and painted wagon wheels. Several are on display.
As wagons gave way to trains, circuses began traveling by rail. On display is The Wisconsin, the private Pullman car of John and Mable Ringling. Its exterior is painted forest green with a rich dark wood interior; it is an example of the wealth the Ringlings acquired through owning and running a circus.
Don’t leave without visiting the Tibbals Learning Center. It houses interactive exhibits that are great photo opportunities whether you want fun shots for your Instagram or wish to capture the whimsy in your children’s eyes. Try your hand at walking a tightrope, pose with a tiger (a model, of course), stand atop a trick pony and squeeze into an itty-bitty clown car.
Once you’ve shown off your skills as a circus star, tour through the Howard Bros. Circus Model. This 50-year labor of love was made by Howard Tibbals, who admired the circus since he first saw it at an early age. This magnificent tribute is a scale model with costumed performers, roustabouts, tents, wagons and railcars. Peek into tents where acts like the flying trapeze are in progress and search for fun details like John Ringling scoping out a rival circus.
2. The John & Mable Ringling Museum of Art
Your ticket to The Ringling includes entry to the Museum of Art as well as the circus museum, so if you have time, don’t miss looking at the works of art on display — notably Old Masters such as Rubens and Van Dyck.
John and Mable Ringling collected art during their lives and had the museum built in 1925. Upon his death, John Ringling left their collection to the people of Florida, and today, visitors can see Baroque, Contemporary and Asian works of art. The collection also includes Greek and Roman antiquities.
You can tour the museum on your own or bring some headphones to enjoy the audio guide available on the museum website; transcripts of the audio guide are also available. If like me, you prefer a guided tour, be at the museum 2 or 3 Tuesday through Sunday for the 40-minute guided tour. Tours are free, and topics depend on the guide's interests.
3. Ca’ d’Zan
For an additional fee, you can also tour the first floor of the home of John and Mable Ringling. Ca’ d’Zan translates to House of John named such because the couple drew inspiration from Ca d’Oro, a palace on the Grand Canal in Venice.
Construction started on the 36,000-square-foot home in 1924 and was completed in 1926. The house, decorated in a Mediterranean Revival style, is full of décor reflective of the Roaring ‘20s. On Tuesday and Thursday, The Ringling offers hour-long guided tours that allow guests to see more of the house. No matter the tour option, buy your tickets in advance because only a limited number of people are permitted in the home.
4. The Ringling Grounds
While visiting The Ringling, you can also walk the ground and tour the Bayfront Gardens made up of Mable’s Rose Garden, shady banyan trees and the Millennium Tree Trail. If you have kids, there is a playground between the Circus Museum and the rose garden. You can also take a stroll down the waterfront promenade along Sarasota Bay.
You have a few options to grab a bite if you need a lunch break. Mable’s Tea and Coffee, serving beverages and baked goods, and The Ringling Grillroom, offering salads, sandwiches and a small selection of entrees, are located in the visitor center. Two food trucks also are open for limited hours, weather permitting. You’ll find one near the circus museum and the other near Ca’ d’Zan.
5. Other Circus Activities
If you have time while visiting Sarasota, catch a show. The Circus Arts Conservatory puts on a few shows throughout the year. Circus Sarasota, which occurs in February, showcases performers from around the world who awe audiences with their feats both on the ground and flying through the air.
The conservatory also offers recreational classes. If you’ve ever watched a circus and thought, “I could do that,” test your abilities. Soar through the air on the flying trapeze or defy gravity on aerial silks. Kids can also take a class that allows them to try out several apparatuses. I recommend booking classes before making your trip.
6. Kayak Through the Mangroves
For a non-circus-related activity, take a kayak tour through the mangroves. Sea Life Kayak Adventures lead guided tours where you can paddle around Lido Key. Tours depart from Ted Sperling Park, and while learning about the local ecosystem, you have the chance to see dolphins and manatees. You can choose between 1-seat and 2-seat kayaks, and guided tours last about 2 hours. Wear a swimsuit and light clothing, and I suggest packing your phone in a waterproof phone pouch to avoid water damage while taking photos.
Book your tour with Sea Life Kayak Adventures.
7. Take the Trolley Tour
Tour the town on a 90-minute trolley tour with Discover Sarasota Tours. Their knowledgeable guides will take you around popular parts of the city, such as historic neighborhoods, and they’ll tell you about the history of Sarasota and notable figures in the town’s past, such as Bertha Palmer (no relation), a businesswoman and philanthropist.
Book your seat on Discover Sarasota Tour.
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