NATIONAL PARK

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

The roads are open from late May or mid-June to late October (weather permitting). Spirit Lake Memorial Highway (SR 504) extends 50 miles from I-5 at Castle Rock to Johnston Ridge. Except for the section between Coldwater Ridge and Johnston Ridge, this road is kept open year-round; however, chains or winter traction devices may be necessary.

Until May 18, 1980, Mount St. Helens was one of Washington's snowcapped crown jewels. Spirit Lake, at its northern base, was a primary recreation center. The surrounding hills of the Gifford Pinchot National Forest beckoned hikers and outdoor recreation enthusiasts, and timber provided a livelihood for loggers.

At 8:32 a.m. an explosion of incredible force blew the top 1,313 feet and much of the bulging north face off Mount St. Helens, shot a dense plume of smoke and ash 80,000 feet into the air and released a mile-wide avalanche that raised Spirit Lake by more than 200 feet and laid over forests as if they had been combed. Mud and logs surged down the Toutle and Cowlitz rivers, temporarily clogging the Columbia River shipping lanes with silt. The pall of ash turned morning into midnight as it fell, halting traffic for a hundred miles and covering parts of three states with a fine gray powder.

The cataclysm was not wholly unexpected. The first puff of steam and ash that appeared nearly two months earlier signaled the end of the mountain's 123-year-long sleep and announced the first volcanic activity in the contiguous 48 states since the initial eruption of California's Mount Lassen in 1914. Mount St. Helens soon became one of the world's most closely monitored volcanoes.

Weeks before the great explosion, increasing seismic phenomena, heat and the swelling north slope had changed “if the mountain blows” to “when the mountain blows.” Despite the renewal of life that has taken hold since the 1980 blast, the watch continues; subsequent, subtle episodes suggest that the volcano might not yet be ready for another extended nap.

General Information

If you are planning to travel in southwestern Washington, you might wish to check with your local AAA club for the latest highway and recreation area information, then update that information by checking with clubs once you arrive in the Pacific Northwest. Many roads within the Gifford Pinchot National Forest are usually closed from November until April or May; you should check at Forest Service offices before driving on these roads.

More information about the volcanic area can be obtained from the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument Headquarters, 42218 N.E. Yale Bridge Rd., Amboy, WA 98601; phone (360) 449-7800.

Sightseeing helicopter flights are available from several locations along SR 504. Flights also leave daily from Seattle's Boeing Field.

A growing network of hiking trails is becoming accessible around the volcano. It is possible to climb the southern flank of Mount St. Helens, allowing about 7-12 hours for the rigorous trek to the summit and back; a $22 permit is required to climb. For permit and reservation information about the summit climb and information about the hiking trails contact monument headquarters. The Mount St. Helens climbing information line is (360) 449-7861. Note: Climbing may be suspended periodically due to volcanic activity.

A much easier way to see part of the blast zone is to stop at the Science and Learning Center at Coldwater ; from I-5 exit 49, proceed 43 miles east on SR 504 (Spirit Lake Memorial Highway) to Milepost 43. The center sits atop a ridge offering a spectacular view of the lava dome of Mount St. Helens, 7 miles in the distance. The paved, quarter-mile Winds of Change Trail traverses part of the blast zone, while the Elk Bench and Lakes trails lead to Coldwater Lake. Picnic facilities are available. The center's visitor information station is open Sat.-Sun. 10-6, June-Oct.; Sat.-Sun. 10-4, rest of year; phone (360) 274-2131.

A pass is required at developed sites and visitor centers. A Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument Day Pass, available at Johnston Ridge Observatory, costs $8; free (ages 0-15). The America the Beautiful – National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Passes also are accepted at this visitor center. A National Forest Recreation Pass ($5 per vehicle for a day pass) or a Northwest Forest Pass ($30 for an annual pass) is required at sites on the east and south sides of the monument.