By Suzanne Lemon
It’s best to rent a car when exploring Rocky Mountain National Park, a captivating land of wide-open spaces surrounded by majestic mountains. Check with the visitor centers or phone (970) 586-1206 for information about road closures and conditions. The weather can change rapidly, especially in spring and fall—dress in layers, and include a warm jacket in your gear selection.
Day 1: Morning
Those not camping within the park boundaries typically choose from the plentiful accommodations in Estes Park, Rocky Mountain National Park’s eastern gateway. Spend the morning getting acquainted with this charming little town, which has all the amenities needed for planning your park activities.Elkhorn Avenue is the main drag through the center of town, and you’ll have fun hunting for souvenirs in the small shops. This also is a great place to stock up on picnic supplies for your sojourn into the park. Several outfitters and purveyors of outdoor gear are on hand to help you prepare for any adventure—camping, hiking, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and fishing are just a few of the many recreational pursuits available to visitors.
Observe the surrounding countryside at a lofty 8,700 feet by climbing aboard the Aerial Tramway, which shuttles passengers to Prospect Mountain’s summit. You’ll be rewarded with glorious views of the Continental Divide, Longs Peak and other landmarks within the park.
Day 1: Afternoon
Take a break and have lunch at one of the little eateries along Elkhorn Avenue. Once rejuvenated, spend the afternoon at one of Estes Park’s museums for some local flavor and insight into Rocky Mountain culture.MacGregor Ranch and Museum preserves the state’s ranching heritage. It’s actually a working cattle ranch, the last in Estes Park, with structures created by the original 1873 homesteaders. Peruse museum exhibits, wander through the smokehouse and blacksmith shop, or take in the lovely pastoral scene dotted with grazing horses and cattle.
Day 1: Evening
For a pre-dinner excursion, head over to The Stanley Hotel. This stately white lodging, rumored to be haunted, once hosted author Stephen King and it’s said that the setting inspired him to pen “The Shining.” During summer, sip a cocktail on the verandah of the Cascades Bar.If you’re in the mood for Italian, Sweet Basilico is recommended for hearty fare just like mama makes, with lasagna, pizza and spaghetti among the homespun choices. A more upscale alternative is Twin Owls Steakhouse, where meat lovers can savor a tasty cut of beef.
The Estes Park Riverwalk in the town center is perfect for a relaxing after-dinner stroll. If you didn’t have any dessert, one of the town’s ice cream or candy shops should satiate your sweet tooth.
Day 2: Morning
You’ll want to get an early start today, because it’s time to witness the splendor of Rocky Mountain National Park. To orient yourself to the various points of interest within the park, stop off at the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center, just west of the Estes Park entrance. You can study the topographical map or view a brief film—rangers are happy to offer advice and answer any questions.Scenic Bear Lake Road, a prime route to travel for savoring scenery, provides quick access if you wish to park and hike. Be sure to bring your camera, as you’ll be eager to snap pictures of spellbinding snow-capped peaks and far-stretching meadows. You’ll probably encounter grazing elk along the way—drive cautiously, as they have been known to wander along the highway.
While hiking trails cater to all ability levels, even the most amateur walker can derive enormous pleasure by embarking on one of the park’s easier routes (but do wear closed-toed athletic shoes). Get your feet wet at Bear Lake Trail, accessed at the end of Bear Lake Road. It’s a peaceful, half-mile interpretive nature loop that darts through the trees as it circles a subalpine lake, framed by a backdrop of awe-inspiring pinnacles. In winter, the trail makes a wonderful snowshoe path, and it’s level enough for first-timers to learn the sport.
Day 2: Afternoon
If you didn’t pack a picnic lunch, you can dine at the restaurant at Fall River Visitor Center . There’s an outdoor patio with nice views, but if it’s too warm or too cold, snag an indoor table with a window seat and enjoy an elk burger or other Rocky Mountain fare. An ice cream stand lures during the warmer months.US 34/Fall River Road, which leads to the park’s high country, presents a cornucopia of wildlife-viewing opportunities. While narrow and winding, the road is safe, and scenic rewards are ample—drive slowly and budget plenty of time. Following a route once frequented by Indian game hunters, you’ll travel past Sheep Lakes in Horseshoe Park, where you can see bighorn sheep nibbling on the mineral deposits during summer. Farther up the road, the Endovalley picnic area teems with birdlife, boasting such diverse visitors as the three-toed woodpecker. Continuing west, you’ll come across Willow Park, where elk happily munch on foliage, and then the road gives way to starkly beautiful alpine tundra.
For a worthy afternoon stop, check out the smallish yet interesting Moraine Park Discovery Center , close to the Beaver Meadows park entrance. Interactive displays within this historic lodge explain the park’s geology and feature Rocky Mountain wildlife. Captivating works from the artist-in-residence program illustrate various locales throughout the park.
Day 2: Evening
On your way back to town not far from the park’s east entrance, the Rock Inn Mountain Tavern is a delightful place for a frothy brew, or better yet, dinner. Locals rightly swear by the Devils on Horseback appetizer, dates stuffed with roasted garlic and wrapped in crispy bacon. Burgers, steaks, seafood and pasta satisfy those hungry after a day of hard-core park exploration. Live bands perform on weekends at this rustic, yet comfy roadhouse.
Day 3: Morning
And what exactly is the most direct (and breathtakingly scenic) way to accomplish this mission? Via Trail Ridge Road, a winding 48-mile route that cuts across the mountains, traveling from one side of the park to the other. You’ll need to exercise caution on this dramatic mountain drive, which peaks at an elevation of 12,183 feet. Viewpoints along the way include Many Parks Curve, Rainbow Curve and Lava Cliffs. Along your journey, you’ll likely see scurrying marmots and pikas, and you might even spy a shy bighorn sheep. During summer, be sure to explore the Tundra World Nature Trail—this half-hour walk presents views of colorful alpine plants and wildflowers, awash in a vibrant palette of pink, purple, yellow, blue and red. What you’ll notice most along the drive is the diverse landscape—lush forest gives way to windswept alpine tundra, which becomes apparent by the time you arrive at the Alpine Visitor Center. As you wind your way down the road toward Grand Lake, you might sight some elk (or the occasional moose) wandering along the Colorado River in the Kawuneeche Valley.
Day 3: Afternoon
There’s a lot to do in Grand Lake, but be sure to budget enough time and daylight to return to Estes Park via Trail Ridge Road. Three lakes—Grand, Granby and Shadow Mountain—make the town a popular haunt for fishing, boating and kayaking. Anglers also head to fishing holes in the nearby Arapaho National Recreation Area, which entices hikers with the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail.If you want to expend less energy, you can learn about pioneer life at Kauffman House Museum, an 1892 log structure built by Ezra Kauffman as a tourist hotel. The museum’s collection includes an interesting assortment of odds and ends, including winter sports equipment, ironware, quilts, postcards, furniture and dolls.