DESTINATION

San Miguel De Allende, Guanajuato

Mex. 111, a local two-lane road that branches west off highway Mex. 57-D, is an unlikely gateway to the charm that defines San Miguel. Its outskirts have that everyday scruffiness common to most Mexican towns—dilapidated gas stations mix with newer commercial development in a small-scale version of “suburban sprawl.”

But as Mex. 111 twists and turns toward the center of town, things start to change. The street narrows and becomes cobbled. Aged buildings rub shoulders along a sidewalk barely wide enough for one pedestrian, let alone two. Open shop doorways offer quick glimpses of clothing and crafts.

Suddenly you're at a scenic overlook, a pull-off with a small parking area. A few vendors sit beside their wares—piles of woven baskets, perhaps, or neatly arranged rows of painted ceramic figurines. Below a protective wrought-iron fence the town spreads out, filling a bowl-shaped valley. One structure towers above the others: multispired La Parroquía, the parish church.

San Miguel began as a mission where Indians were evangelized and also taught European weaving and agricultural techniques. As it prospered, the settlement became a local market center for the surrounding haciendas trading in cattle and textiles. Historical significance made its mark as well: Here native son Ignacio Allende, along with Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, a priest from the neighboring town of Dolores Hidalgo, planned the original uprising that led to Mexico's bitter and protracted War of Independence.

In 1926, the Mexican government designated the city a national historic monument, and preservation measures began in earnest. Modern construction was prohibited in the city center; crumbling old buildings were carefully restored. Foreigners began moving in during the 1930s, and today there is an established North American expatriate community of artisans, teachers, writers and part-time residents.

Practicalities

Guanajuato International Airport (also referred to as Del Bajio International Airport) is in León, about a 90-minute drive from San Miguel. Airlines that provide service to the airport include Aeroméxico, American, Delta, Interject and Volaris.

Polanco Tours, a San Miguel tour company, offers van transportation to and from the airport. One-way fare is about $72 (U.S.) for two passengers, plus $10 for each additional passenger up to six; phone (415) 152-4193. Another local tour company, Viajes San Miguel, provides shuttle transportation to and from the airport ($30 U.S. one way, $58 round trip); phone (415) 152-2537 or (415) 152-2538.

“Deluxe” bus service from Mexico City's Terminal Central de Autobuses del Norte is provided daily by ETN; Primera Plus and Pegaso Plus provide first-class service. The trip is nonstop and takes about 3 hours. Second-class service by Flecha Amarilla and Herradura de Plata takes 4 hours and includes a stop in Querétaro and local stops en route. Flecha Amarilla buses also provide frequent service between San Miguel and Guanajuato. The central bus station is on the westward extension of Calle Canal, about 1.5 kilometers (1 mile) west of the center of town.

Taxis provide flat-rate service between the bus station and downtown, as well as to other locations around the city, for about $3 to $5 (U.S.). There is a sitio (cab stand) at the main plaza.

By car, the 180-mile journey from Mexico City takes 3 to 4 hours via Mex. 57-D to the Querétaro toll bypass (watch for the San Miguel exit). The bypass highway crosses Mex. 57-D north of Querétaro and connects with Mex. 111, which proceeds northwest to San Miguel. The trip along two-lane Mex. 111 is slow but scenic, offering views of typical Mexican rural life. From Guanajuato, take Mex. 45 and 45-D south and east toward Celaya, then Mex. 51 north.

Note: Street parking is scarce in the congested historic center, and local police do not hesitate to issue violators a ticket. If driving from Mexico City or elsewhere, you may have to park several blocks from the center. If you're staying in town and have a car leave it at your hotel, since almost everything of interest is within walking distance. The altitude may initially tire visitors not used to walking at higher elevations.

Banks along Calle San Francisco exchange currency Mon.-Fri. 9-1:30, but have long lines; the casas de cambio (currency exchange houses) located in the vicinity of the main plaza are a quicker alternative.

San Miguel's weather is warm and dry most of the year, but the city rarely experiences the extremes of heat common to much of Mexico. Winter nights can be chilly, and many hotels aren't heated (although some have fireplaces). The rainy season is June through September. In May an extra splash of color is added when the jacaranda trees are covered with purple blooms.

Things To Do

Exploring Around Town

Some travelers complain that San Miguel's “gentrification,” so to speak, has replaced authentic Mexican atmosphere with a touristy vibe—trendy restaurants, pricey boutiques and a lack of local grit. It's true that foreign investors have driven up prices, and the bright orange and red facades add a Disneyesque touch.

But a stroll through the historic center proves that these complaints are primarily quibbles. There is atmosphere to spare, from heavy carved wooden doors to intricate stone carvings adorning the windows of handsome old buildings. Their sheltered inner patios, cool retreats filled with trees, burbling fountains, clipped hedges and flowerpot urns, have a timeless beauty.

You'll see other tourists but also have plenty of opportunities to mingle with locals—perhaps children who shyly ask if you want to buy some gum (“Chicle”?), or an elderly gentleman whiling away the afternoon at El Jardín, the main plaza.

Make the plaza, located between calles San Francisco and Correo, your first stop. Shaded by Indian laurel trees, it's a great place to relax on a wrought-iron bench, listen to the tolling bells of La Parroquía and observe the local scene. Buy a cold drink and plan the day's itinerary. In the evening mariachi bands play, vendors sell carnitas (grilled pork) and churros (doughnut-like fritters), flocks of pigeons flutter and couples stroll. This is the city's heart.

Most attractions are within easy walking distance of the plaza, and the historic center is compact. Wear comfortable shoes; many streets are cobblestoned, and some are steep.

San Miguel's reputation as an arts center was established by the opening of the Allende Institute, southwest of downtown at Calle Ancha de San Antonio #20. One of its American founders, Stirling Dickinson, came to Mexico as a tourist in the 1930s and fell in love with the city. Fountains, arcades and courtyard gardens grace the grounds of the campus, which has extensive classroom space, two art galleries, a theater and a library.

The Bellas Artes Cultural Center (Centro Cultural Bellas Artes), about 2 blocks west of the main plaza at Calle Hernández Macías #75, also is called the Centro Cultural el Nigromante (its official name) and the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez. It is a branch of the well-known National Institute of Fine Arts (Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes) in Mexico City. The impressive building dates from the mid-18th century and has an immense, tree-shaded courtyard. Several murals are exhibited, including one by David Alfaro Siqueiros. Admission is free.

Helene Kahn Tours conducts English-language walking tours of the city as well as guided excursions to such out-of-town points of interest as the Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden and the Sanctuary of Atotonilco. Reservations are required; check the website for details or phone (415) 152-0849.

For information about local happenings, consult the weekly English-language newspaper Atención San Miguel, which is available at the public library and the El Colibri bookstore, about 2 blocks east of the main plaza at Calle Sollano #30.

Shopping

San Miguel is known for regionally produced, high-quality handicrafts. Metalwork—masks, trays, lanterns, picture frames and decorative objects made of tin, copper, brass, bronze and wrought iron—and the work of local silversmiths is particularly worth seeking out. You'll also find pottery, weavings, sculpture, straw items, hand-loomed cambaya cloth (a material frequently used to make skirts), and folk and traditional art. The colonial furniture is some of the finest produced in Mexico.

Most craft and gift shops are open Mon.-Sat. 9-7 and close from 2-4 for the traditional siesta; a few may open briefly on Sunday. Many accept U.S. dollars and/or MasterCard and Visa, and some will pack and ship purchases.

The open-air City Market fills the plaza near the Church of San Felipe Neri, several blocks northeast of the main plaza, and usually spreads onto the surrounding streets. Livestock and fresh produce share space with inexpensive everyday items and souvenirs at the cheaper end of the price scale. The Crafts Market (Mercado de Artesanías) consists of vendor stalls in an alley off Calle Loreto, near the Quinta Loreto Hotel and the City Market.

Pricier boutiques are scattered throughout the historic downtown area. Casa Canal, on Calle Canal, specializes in hand-carved wooden furniture. Casa Maxwell, Calle Canal #14, has an array of Mexican and Latin American folk art. For a large selection of antiques, colonial art and home furnishings, browse through La Antigua Casa Canela, Calle Umaran #20.

Art galleries are concentrated around the main plaza, and exhibit openings are big social events. Two that showcase both regional and national talent are Galería San Miguel, Plaza Principal #14, and Galería Atenea, Calle Jesús #2.

Embark on a road trip to Galería Atotonilco. From downtown San Miguel, take Calzada de la Aurora (the northward extension of Calle Hidalgo), which becomes Mexico #51 heading to Dolores Hidalgo. Continue north about 8 kilometers (5 miles). At El Cortijo, just past the Escondido Spa, turn left in front of a small stone arch, then left again where the main road veers left. After approximately .65 kilometers (.4 miles), watch for two houses (one yellow and one white) next to each other. Turn right between them and follow the curving driveway to the red gallery building.

Located in a beautiful rural setting on the Río Laja, the gallery carries high-quality handicrafts and antiques from all over Mexico—ceramic jars, vases and platters, colorful baskets, hand-forged ironwork, country-style furniture. Folk art includes whimsical trees of life in different sizes, hand-painted animal wood carvings from Oaxaca, papier-mâché skeletons and retablos (small oil paintings of Catholic saints). There's also a nice selection of hand-woven sarapes from villages in northern Mexico. The gallery is open by appointment only; phone (415) 185-2225 or (510) 295-4097 (from the United States).

Dining & Entertainment

Due to San Miguel's expat community there are numerous restaurants offering a wide range of cuisines. They also open and close regularly; check with the State Tourism Office for the current local favorites. The most expensive places are in the upscale hotels, where the dress code may require a sports coat for men. See the Lodgings & Restaurants section for AAA Diamond designated dining establishments.

You can sip fancy cocktails and dance to DJ-spun hip-hop at the Mint nightclub, located in the same building as the El Petit Four restaurant/bakery (Calle Mesones #99, near the main plaza). Mama Mia's, a bar and restaurant at Calle Umarán #8, has live salsa and jazz bands.

San Miguel celebrates a number of festivals throughout the year. Perhaps the biggest event is the Fiesta of the Archangel San Miguel (Fiesta de San Miguel Arcángel) on Sept. 29, which honors the town's patron saint. The festivities, which extend for several days, take place around the main plaza and along the adjoining streets and include parades, fireworks and regional dance performances.

Holy Week (Semana Santa) celebrations, which begin about 2 weeks before Easter Sunday, include a lavish procession on Good Friday and the burning of Judas effigies on Easter. The traditional and very popular Festival of San Antonio de Padua (Fiesta de San Antonio de Padua) is held on June 13; it features the Los Locos (Crazy Ones) parade, when people dress up in fanciful costumes and masks and parade through the streets to the accompaniment of live music.

The Chamber Music Festival (Festival de Música de Cámara) is held the first 2 weeks of August at the Bellas Artes Cultural Center. The International Festival of Jazz and Blues takes place in mid-November.

San Miguel's traditional posadas, with music, canticles and plays dramatizing Mary and Joseph's search for an inn, ring in the holiday season beginning Dec. 16. The State Tourism Office has information about these and other event happenings.