San Cristóbal and Chiapas made international headlines in 1994, Mexico's most politically turbulent year since the 1910 Revolution. Indian guerrillas calling themselves the Zapatista National Liberation Army (in honor of revolutionary leader Emiliano Zapata) occupied San Cristóbal and several other mountain towns, demanding more land and a measure of self-rule for their communities. The rebellion, which left more than 100 dead over 12 days, was a violent reminder that large numbers of poor Indian farmers were not sharing in the country's prosperity.
While social injustices are understandably taken very seriously in Mexico, visitors aren't likely to see evidence of political tension in San Cristóbal outside of the occasional demonstration or graffiti-scrawled wall. Tourism contributes greatly to the local income, and visitors come from around the world; some street vendors sell ski-masked dolls representing Zapatista guerrilla leader Subcomandante Marcos—a popular souvenir—along with the usual trinkets.
The city lies in a highland valley where the surrounding pine and oak forests are sprinkled with orchids and ferns. Here the whitewashed walls and cobblestone streets typical of other Mexican colonial cities have a mystical backdrop of cloud-shrouded mountain peaks. The evening air is redolent with the smoky fragrance of burning ocote, a pitch-pine kindling sold in local markets.
Although at a tropical latitude, the altitude, cool weather and frequent fog lend San Cristóbal a decidedly nontropical feeling. And this is where Central America begins, culturally if not politically; the border with Guatemala lies little more than 160 kilometers (100 miles) southeast.
Practicalities
Getting to remote San Cristóbal takes some planning. The easiest way is to fly into Tuxtla Gutiérrez International Airport (Aeropuerto Internacional Angel Albino Corzo), which is south of the city and southwest of San Cristóbal. Airlines providing service to the airport include Aeroméxico, American, Delta, Interject and Volaris.A taxi ride from Tuxtla Gutiérrez to San Cristóbal will cost about $50 (U.S.). The drive from Tuxtla east to San Cristóbal takes about 1.5 hours via Mex. 190. It winds for some 83 kilometers (51 miles) in a series of S-curves around high mountain peaks, frequently above cloud level. The elevation ascends some 5,000 feet between the two cities. The two-lane road passes through beautiful, unspoiled scenery, but slippery pavement during the June-through-October rainy season can make the surface dangerous.
Note: If you're unfamiliar with mountain driving, exercise caution. Never drive at a faster speed than conditions warrant, downshift to a lower gear when climbing or going down steep grades, and use particular caution when negotiating curves. Also keep in mind that high elevations often experience changeable weather and can cause headaches or shortness of breath if you're not used to the altitude.
First-class bus service to and from Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Palenque, Villahermosa, Oaxaca and Mérida is offered by Autotransportes Cristóbal Colón and ADO. These two lines share a bus terminal at the intersection of Mex. 190 and Avenida Insurgentes, about 9 blocks south of the main plaza. Bus tickets can be purchased at the terminal or at the Ticket Bus agency in downtown San Cristóbal, at Avenida Belisario Domínguez #8 (a block northeast of the main plaza).
Most of San Cristóbal's visitor-related attractions, restaurants and shopping areas are within walking distance of the main plaza. For trips to Indian villages in the vicinity, passenger vans (colectivos) and taxis depart from locations along Mex. 190 in the vicinity of the first-class bus terminal. Combis (Volkswagen vans) make regular runs from Mex. 190 (pickup is by the main bus terminal) north to downtown via Avenida Crescencio Rosas. Taxi rides within town average about $3 (U.S.); a knowledge of Spanish will be helpful when determining the exact fare.
Chiapas, Mexico's southernmost state, is largely mountainous and forested, and the stunning natural scenery—from mist-shrouded peaks and cascading waterfalls to steamy jungles inhabited by many kinds of wildlife—makes it a fascinating place to explore. ATC Tours conducts a variety of regional eco-oriented adventures, including bird-watching trips, hikes to observe butterflies and orchids, and hiking and white-water rafting excursions. The San Cristóbal office is at Av. 16 de Septiembre #16 at Calle 5 de Febrero, a block northwest of the main plaza; for information phone (967) 678-2550.
A local tour company that offers city tours with an English-speaking guide is Explorando Chiapas. Sightseeing excursions also can be arranged to the ruins of Palenque, Sumidero Canyon, the Agua Azul and Misol-Ha waterfalls, and the Indian villages of Chamula and Zinacantán. The office is at Real de Guadalupe #54 (Calle Guadalupe Victoria), about seven blocks east of the main plaza. Phone (967) 147-6483; explorandochiapas.com.mx.
City Layout
Plaza 31 de Marzo, the main plaza, is between avenidas 16 de Septiembre and 20 de Noviembre and calles 5 de Febrero and Guadalupe Victoria. It's a good starting place for exploring downtown. The surrounding colonial-era buildings are stylistically Spanish, although the atmosphere is unmistakably Indian. If you stop here to relax and observe daily life, you'll likely be approached by street vendors (mostly women and children). The scene is especially bustling in the evening, when families congregate and the air is filled with aromas wafting from food carts. Musicians normally play on weekend evenings at the gazebo in the center of the plaza.On the plaza's north side stands San Cristóbal's 16th-century Cathedral. It was constructed in 1528 and rebuilt in 1693. Some of the exterior carvings of saints are missing their heads. The bright yellow exterior is particularly lovely in the late afternoon sun, and beautifully illuminated at night.
The west side is dominated by the arcaded, yellow-and-white Municipal Palace, distinguished by its numerous arcades. At the plaza's southeast corner is the House of Diego Mazariegos, which dates from the 16th century and now houses a hotel; the building's detailed exterior stonework is an example of the plateresque architectural style.
The narrow streets of the historic center are laid out in an easy-to-navigate grid pattern. As in other Mexican cities, street names change depending on geographical orientation to the main plaza. The principal north-south thoroughfare is called Avenida Insurgentes south of the plaza and General M. Utrilla north of it; Calle Francisco I. Madero, the principal east-west thoroughfare, becomes Diego de Mazariegos west of the plaza. Similarly, north-south Avenida 16 de Septiembre changes to Crescencio Rosas south of the plaza; east-west Calle María Adelina Flores is named 5 de Febrero west of the plaza.
Opposite the plaza's northwest corner on Avenida 16 de Septiembre is the Museum of Jade (Museo del Jade). Exhibits include jewelry, reproductions of Olmec carvings and a painstaking replica of the sarcophagus lid from the tomb of King Pacal, ruler of Palenque for more than 70 years.
Three blocks south of the plaza, just off Avenida Miguel Hidalgo, is the 1587 Church of El Carmen (Templo del Carmen); a street passes through the middle of its four-story arch. Crowning one of the rolling hills east of the center of town (about 10 blocks east of the main plaza via Calle Real de Guadalupe) is the Church of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Walk 79 steps to the top of the hill for a view that takes in the entire city.
Surrounding the downtown core is a patchwork quilt of neighborhoods (barrios) that originally developed around specific trades—carpenters, blacksmiths, candle makers. Today ladinos—Mexicans of non-Indian descent—live in these neighborhoods of one-story, pastel-colored stucco houses with red-tiled roofs and wrought-iron window grills.
Mex. 190, the Pan-American Highway, runs through the southern part of town on its way to the Guatemalan border. The official name is Boulevard Juan Sabines, but it's known locally as “El Bulevar.”
Things To Do
Dining & Entertainment
Chiapanecan cuisine incorporates such reliable Mexican standbys as tamales, enchiladas and tacos, although they're often enhanced with distinctively flavored herbs and hot sauces. A popular local beverage is atole, a lightly sweetened drink made from cornmeal, and vendors outside the cathedral sell corn on the cob and other snacks from their carts. San Cristóbal restaurants also offer numerous vegetarian options.El Fogón de Jovel, a block west of the main plaza at Av. 16 de Septiembre #11 (at Calle Guadalupe Victoria), has a courtyard and live music, all the better to enjoy such specialties as chicken in pipián, a traditional mole sauce made from ground pumpkin seeds, chile peppers and other seasonings. Another restaurant close to the main plaza—and a popular local hangout—is Emiliano's Moustache, Calle Crescensio Rosas #7 (at Avenida Mazariegos). The tacos come with various fillings, and tortillas are handmade.
La Paloma is just south of the main plaza at Calle Miguel Hidalgo #3, the pedestrian-only street called the Andador Turístico. This bright, hip little cafe has good Mexican choices like squash flower soup, cactus salad and abalone in chipotle sauce. For something non-Mexican try Restaurant L'Edén, 2 blocks northwest of the main plaza at Calle 5 de Febrero (in the Hotel El Paraíso). The menu features Swiss-inspired dishes, including raclette (melted cheese draped over potatoes) and fondue.
Businesses on Real de Guadalupe cater to tourists, and this also is a convenient place to have breakfast. La Casa del Pan, Real de Guadalupe #55, emphasizes healthy vegetarian dishes made with regionally grown grains and beans. The bread is fresh-baked, and the coffee is a good reason to linger. The shop in the restaurant sells organic coffee beans, raw chocolate and other local products.
Hotel bars and several nightclubs, all in the historic downtown area, offer live music ranging from salsa and jazz to reggae, rock and cover versions of old top 40 hits. The choice is greatest on weekends, but there is something going on almost every night of the week. Musicians play most evenings at El Cocodrilo, in the Hotel Santa Clara (on Avenida Insurgentes across from the south side of the main plaza). Latino's, a block east of the main plaza at Av. Francisco I. Madero #23, features Latin music.
San Cristóbal's Spring Fair (Feria de la Primavera y de la Paz) takes place the week after Easter. The festivities include parades, bullfights, band concerts, handicraft exhibits, amusement rides and food stalls dishing up an array of regional specialties. Carnaval celebrations, featuring a parade of revelers dressed in vivid costumes, are held just before Lent.
The Indian village of San Juan Chamula is noted for its religious observances, particularly those celebrated during Holy Week (between Palm Sunday and Easter Sunday). A blend of Christian and pagan rites, the ceremonies take place both inside the village church and on the plaza in front of it. On June 24, a Catholic priest visits the village to baptize newborn children.
Carnaval celebrations, featuring a parade of vivid costumes, are held just before Lent. The rollicking Feast of St. John the Baptist (San Juan Bautista), the patron saint of San Juan Chamula, is observed June 22-25. The Feast of San Cristóbal, held July 17-25, honors the town's patron saint. Pilgrims carrying torches climb the steep hill to the Church of San Cristóbal to attend special services.
The Feast Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe begins at the end of November, with almost daily parade processions to the Church of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Fireworks are set off, creating a series of small explosions running down the street to the church, and the street is blocked off so food stands and carnival rides can be set up. The festivities culminate on Dec. 12, the Feast Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe, with a fireworks show and general merrymaking.
Chiapanecos also celebrate—along with the rest of Mexico—the Days of the Dead Nov. 1 and 2 and celebrations of Jesus' birth during the Christmas season.
Visitor Centers
Chiapas State Tourism Office (Secretaría de Turismo) Avenida Hidalgo San Cristóbal de Las Casas, CS . Phone:(967)678-6570
Shopping
The Municipal Market, 8 blocks north of the main plaza between avenidas General M. Utrilla and Belisario Domínguez, spreads out over blocks and is worth visiting just to observe the colorfully attired merchants and customers. It's open every day but Sunday, when the local village markets take over; Saturday morning is the best time to visit. Produce, flower stands, Chiapan coffee beans and household items dominate the open-air portion; butcher stalls are within the covered section. Be very discreet about taking photographs of vendors or shoppers (or don't take them at all), and watch out for pickpockets.If you're searching for handicrafts, try the shops along Calle Real de Guadalupe in the blocks just east of the main plaza. The quality is evident in the lovely woolen shawls, huipiles (white cotton dresses embroidered with flower and geometric designs), bolts of fabric, leather goods, woven blankets and amber jewelry. Women and children will often approach tourists on the street selling dolls, bracelets and other handmade items.
The government-run House of Crafts (Casa de las Artesanías), 2 blocks south of the main plaza at Calle Niñoes Héroes and Avenida Hidalgo, stocks a representative selection of woolen vests, embroidered blouses and other clothing, amber jewelry, ceramics and textiles. An exhibition room showcases the native dress of villagers in the surrounding Indian communities.
Sna Jolobil, on Calzada Lázaro Cardenas within the Temple and Ex-Convent of Santo Domingo, is a crafts cooperative run by Tzeltal and Tzotzil Indians, who also handcraft the high-quality merchandise on display. The name means “weaver's house.” Another cooperative effort is Taller Leñateros, east of the main plaza at Calle Flavio A. Paniagua #54. In addition to crafts, the workshop—where artisans can be observed on the job—creates ingenious postcards, book binders and writing paper.
La Galeria, Calle Hidalgo #3, spotlights well-known artists and also sells turquoise and silver jewelry. The restaurant above the gallery features live music in the evening.
About 37 kilometers (23 miles) southeast of San Cristóbal via Mex. 190 is the Tzeltal village of Amatenango del Valle, known for its women potters. The pottery is fired by wood rather than in a kiln. You can buy directly from local families, whose wares include simple jugs and pots as well as animalito (animal) figures. The women wear huipiles embroidered with distinctive red and yellow designs.
Things to Do
Amber MuseumTemple and Ex-Convent Of Santo Domingo
Nearby Destinations
The ethnic peoples populating the nearby communities north of San Cristóbal are among the most resilient in the country. They have managed to maintain their cultural identity over hundreds of years and also in the face of drastic modernization. Although almost all are members of the Tzeltal, Tzotzil and Chamula tribes, the inhabitants of these mountain villages retain a striking variety of differences in manner of dress, dialect, and religious customs and ceremonies.Men frequently leave the villages to find work; women tend to the cornfields, take care of the children and run the market stalls. Women are often seen bent under a load of firewood, balanced on their backs with the aid of a strap fitted across the forehead. Among the handicrafts produced by village artisans are wooden musical instruments, leather goods, ceramics, furniture and woven baskets. The best time to visit is during a fiesta or on Sunday morning, when most of the villages have their own market and tourists are most welcomed.
San Juan Chamula, about 10 kilometers (6 miles) northwest of San Cristóbal via a paved road, is the best-known village. Spanish is not spoken, and English is rarely heard. Daily life centers on the town church (Iglesia de San Juan Bautista), where the religious rituals are a fascinating blend of Christian and non-Christian. The church is named for St. John the Baptist, a religious figure who in this region takes precedence over Jesus Christ.
The white stucco structure, which stands next to the main plaza, has a beautifully carved wooden door. Inside the dimness is illuminated by a sea of flickering candles, the tile floor is strewn with pine needles and the smell of incense wafts throughout. There are no pews; people sit on the floor. Statues of saints line the walls, swaddled in layers of brightly colored cloth. While worshippers chant and pray in front of these statues, they figure in church rituals in name only; Catholicism is not observed by the villagers.
You must obtain a 10-peso ticket to enter the church; tickets are available at the local tourist office on the main plaza. Visitors may stand and observe quietly in the background while prayer or curing rituals are being performed, which often involve rubbing the bodies of the sick with eggs or chicken bones. People also drink from bottles of Coca-Cola—the resultant burping is thought to expel evil spirits from the body—and some imbibe posh, a more potent beverage made from fermented sugarcane. Photography is strictly forbidden. Do not wear a hat inside.
Near the church is Ora Ton, a small museum that displays musical instruments and examples of traditional clothing. The ticket allowing admittance to the church includes admission to the museum.
Zinacantán is about 11 kilometers (7 miles) northwest of San Cristóbal; the road to this village forks west off the road to San Juan Chamula and descends into a valley. Zinacantán's side-by-side churches also have floors covered in pine needles, but the rituals here incorporate Catholicism to a greater degree. Photography, both inside and out, is strictly prohibited, and you may be escorted in rather than being allowed to enter on your own. A small fee also is charged.
Unless you feel comfortable assimilating into an unfamiliar culture, a guided trip is the best way to experience a bit of daily life in these villages. Small group tours with an English-speaking guide are offered by the Na-Bolom Museum. The fee is about $15 (U.S.) per person.
Note: A visit to any local village involves sensitivity and respect, as you are an outsider and may well be made to feel like one. Picture taking is forbidden at most events, particularly so inside churches, and residents may not take kindly to being stared at. Photography of any sort is generally objected to, so keep cameras packed. Youthful vendors in San Juan Chamula, many of whom live in desperate poverty, will hawk tourists aggressively.