Playa Del Carmen, Quintana Roo

Environmentalism is actively promoted; visitors are encouraged to participate in activities like helping to preserve the nesting sites of sea turtles, a threatened species. Some small-scale accommodations promote a “back to nature” slant; at these rustic, thatch-roofed seaside “eco-hotels” guests participate in yoga classes or meditate in a flotation tank.

But Playa has also become very much a first-class travel destination. In recent years a slew of luxury resorts, including many all-inclusive properties, have sprung up along the coast both north and south of the city. These accommodations are just as exclusive and luxurious as their counterparts in Cancún, offering every possible amenity that guarantees a pampered, worry-free beach vacation.

Resort complexes like Mayakoba, just north of Playa, marry luxury with the natural environment; hotel architects collaborated with geologists and engineers to integrate natural waterways and existing terrain into a master-planned development. Three world-class resorts—the Banyan Tree Mayakoba, the Fairmont Mayakoba and the Rosewood Mayakoba—are connected by a system of man-made canals that at first glance you might think were just another part of the watery coastal landscape. Each of these properties has a state-of-the-art spa where you can rejuvenate in a eucalyptus-infused steam room or relax in the cool, clear waters of a cenote.

While you can still kick back at humble taquerias or purchase cheap street food from vendors in the vicinity of Playa's main plaza, seriously good restaurants—most of them located at the expensive resorts—employ chefs who are pushing creative boundaries when it comes to both ingredients and presentation. And it wasn't that long ago that nightlife consisted primarily of a handful of laid-back beach bars. These days there are more dance clubs than you can shake a stick at, and luxury resorts offer their guests an array of entertainment options, from classy cocktail lounges to on-premises nightclubs.

The city is also conveniently close to several major tourist attractions, including the Xcaret theme park, the Xplor eco-park and the Rio Secreto nature preserve. Cancún is about an hour's drive north, Tulum about a 45-minute drive south. And Cozumel, another tourist hot spot, is a short ferry ride away.

About 20 kilometers (12 miles) south of Playa del Carmen off Mex. 307 is Puerto Aventuras, one of this region's first planned resort communities. Recreational activities include tennis and a nine-hole course at the Puerto Aventuras Golf & Racquet Club, scuba diving and deep-sea fishing trips departing from the Puerto Aventuras Marina, and swimming with dolphins at Dolphin Discovery, within the Dreams Puerto Aventuras resort.

The CEDAM Museum (Museo Subacuatico CEDAM), or the “Shipwreck Museum” to locals, is at the northern end of the marina near the Omni Puerto Aventuras Beach Resort. The small space displays coins, dishes, cannons and other artifacts recovered by divers from 18th-century shipwrecks that occurred off the Quintana Roo coast. It's normally open Mon.-Sat. 9-5, although hours may vary; phone (984) 134-9483.

Practicalities

An elevated overpass built directly over Mex. 307, some 6 kilometers (4 miles) in length, allows drivers heading to points south to bypass the city completely. There are entrance and exit ramps at key cross streets.

Most visitors fly into Cancún International Airport. A private taxi to Playa from the airport is expensive, averaging about $75 (U.S.) one way. USA Transfers provides one way or round-trip private van transportation to most major Playa hotels; look for the uniformed greeters holding signs outside Terminal 3. One-way fares range from around $60-$85 (U.S.) per vehicle, depending on the number of passengers (up to 10 for vans). Pay the driver in full at the airport (cash only); both dollars and pesos are accepted. For more information or to make reservations phone (998) 914-0290.

A less expensive option is taking the bus. The ADO bus line provides frequent daily first-class, reserved-seat service from the airport to Playa. One-way fare is about $15 (U.S.). Bus tickets can be purchased at Terminal 2 (which receives mostly domestic and some international flights) or Terminal 3 (which receives most flights from the United States); a free shuttle runs between the two terminals. Look for the ticket counter inside the terminal entrance doors, or purchase a ticket from the driver; the buses, which have “ADO” printed on the side and the destination on the front, pick up passengers outside the terminals. A stop is often made at Puerto Morelos en route.

There are two bus stations in town. Buses from the Cancún airport arrive at the main (old) downtown station at the corner of Avenida Juárez and 5th Avenue (Avenida 5). Buses to and from Tulum, Chetumal and other long-haul points south, as well as from Mérida and other interior points, arrive at the ADO station at the corner of Avenida 20 and 12th Street.

Drivers on large yellow tricycles (triciclos), the Mexican version of a rickshaw, congregate in front of the downtown station. If you don't have much luggage, this is an inexpensive way to get to nearby hotels. It's also a fun way to take a sightseeing spin.

Bicycle rental shops charge around $10 (U.S.) per day. If you choose to bike around Playa, keep a couple of things in mind. First and foremost, vehicle traffic can be heavy and bicyclists are not given the right of way; ride defensively. Riding is not allowed on 5th Avenue, so walk your bike along this pedestrian thoroughfare. There's a bike path for cyclists and triciclos along 10th Avenue. Helmets are not required, but it's a good idea to wear one; bring your own or purchase one in town.

Taxi fares within the downtown area shouldn't be more than 50 pesos. From the Playacar resort area south of town to downtown, fares average about 80 pesos. Confirm the rate with the driver before getting in the cab. Many drivers don't speak English, so it helps to have directions to your destination written down. Hotel-affiliated taxis tend to cost more; check the posted rates where you're staying.

You also can hire a taxi for the day if you don't have a rental car and plan on taking a few road trips up or down the coast. The driver will take you to the places you want to visit and wait while you sightsee. Rates are negotiable, but expect to pay a minimum of about $75 (U.S.).

Three ferry companies carry passengers between Playa del Carmen and Cozumel. The centrally located ferry pier is off Avenida 5, a block south of the main plaza. Cars are not transported; there is a guarded parking lot across the street from the pier. Departures to Cozumel are approximately every hour (and sometimes on the half-hour) throughout the day. Cold beverages can be purchased on board.

Tickets can be purchased at booths near the foot of the pier. If you're going on a day trip to Cozumel, simply arrive at the pier early and buy a ticket for the next available trip. Early morning rides may sell out due to workers commuting to the island, but in general seats are always available. Double-check the schedule at the pier, and in particular confirm the time of the last departure from the island. Tickets also can be purchased at the Cozumel ferry dock.

The trip takes about 45 minutes aboard modern, air-conditioned vessels. The one-way fare charged by UltraMar is 200 pesos and Mexico WaterJets is 180 pesos. The Barcos Caribe fare is 135 pesos.

Note: Ferry schedules are subject to change due to weather conditions, as seas can sometimes be quite rough; make sure you carry appropriate medication if you're prone to seasickness.

Cruise ships dock at the port of Calica (also called Punta Venado), about 13 kilometers (8 miles) south of Playa del Carmen off Mex. 307. Disembarking passengers will find taxis waiting to take them to other Riviera Maya destinations, but no restaurants, services or shopping opportunities; sightseeing activities should be booked in advance online. The closest tourist attraction is the Xcaret ecological theme park, about a mile from the port; it's a pleasant way to spend the day onshore if you're docked at Calica.

Most banks have ATMs; withdrawals are in pesos. You can also find casas de cambio (currency exchange offices) around town. Many shops and restaurants accept U.S. and Canadian dollars as well as pesos.

City Layout

Downtown is laid out in a simple grid pattern and is easy to negotiate. Avenidas run north-south, calles east-west. Traffic is congested, and newer unpaved, sandy streets frequently have water-filled potholes that require careful maneuvering. The busiest area is where Avenida Benito Juárez, one of the principal east-west thoroughfares, ends at Avenida 5 (also called 5th Avenue or Quinta Avenida), in the vicinity of the bus station and the ferry pier to Cozumel.

Parque Fundadores (Founding Fathers Park), the main plaza, is a block east of 5th Avenue and a block south of Avenida Juárez, just off the beach. Shaded by coconut palms and beautified by tropical plants, this little brick-paved square has benches, a gazebo with black wrought-iron trim and a clear view of the turquoise Caribbean; it's a lovely spot to relax. Around the plaza vendors set up tables shaded by brightly colored umbrellas; in fact, almost everywhere you turn there are umbrella-shaded stands selling something.

Rising from the beachfront is the plaza's most dramatic sight, “Portal Maya 2012.” This bronze sculpture was created by Guanajuatan artist Arturo Taravez. It commemorates the Mayan calendar and the date Dec. 21, 2012, which the Mayans predicted would be the end of the world. Standing some 50 feet tall, the sculpture depicts two entwined human figures and makes a great photo op.

At one corner of the plaza stands the white stucco Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Carmen, the scene of many weddings. On Sundays there's often a line of people waiting to enter the church for services. Nearby, on the beach, there's also a small children's play area in the shape of a pirate ship.

The Voladores de Papantla give daily performances of the flying pole dance at the plaza. Four dancers, their feet bound with ropes attached to a 100-foot-tall pole, launch themselves into the air while a fifth individual perches atop the pole playing a flute and drum. The ritual, most commonly associated with the city of Papantla in the state of Veracruz, is thought to have originated as a way to appease the rain gods during times of severe drought. Donations are solicited from the assembled audience after this dramatic and death-defying performance.

The tourist action centers on 5th Avenue, just inland from the beach. This pedestrian-only thoroughfare is lined with souvenir and specialty shops, restaurants and cafés from Avenida Juárez north to around Calle 44 (44th Street), a distance of about 1.5 miles. Small boutique hotels and more shops and restaurants are on the side streets just off the west side of 5th Avenue. A relaxed afternoon stroll along Quinta Avenida is the ideal way to experience Playa's beachside charm (wear sunglasses and a hat, and bring a bathing suit just in case). It gets more crowded and rowdier in the evening, when locals as well as tourists hit the bars and nightspots.

The Playacar hotel zone is south of the ferry pier. Residential homes, condos, hotels and all-inclusive resorts are within this designated area; the cobblestoned main thoroughfare is called Paseo Xaman-Ha (sha-MAN hah). A genuine lodging bargain might be found here during the off-season (after Easter through November).

Things To Do

Recreation

If you prefer fewer crowds and more seclusion, keep walking north past the jetty at the Gran Porto Resort toward the Kool and Mamita's beach clubs, on either side of Calle 28 Norte. The wide sand beaches here are quieter as long as you avoid the activities around the clubs. You can, however, rent an umbrella and a lounge chair from either of these places if you intend to stay the day; just get there early.

Mamita's Beach Club, on the beach at the end of Calle 28. is a popular daytime hangout. It draws a young, party-seeking crowd to a wide beach filled with chaise lounges, cabanas and canopied sun beds, a sparkling-clean pool, and a large restaurant and bar area. DJ music usually starts cranking in the afternoon. Mamita's also regularly features visiting DJ appearances and hosts music festivals. Of course all the amenities aren't free; you'll pay rental fees for chairs, umbrellas and such, and together with food and drink costs your cash expenditure can add up quickly.

Across Calle 28 is the Kool Beach Club, frequented by a somewhat older crowd not as intent on nonstop partying. A set cost entitles you to use a sun deck with lounge chairs and sun beds and a stretch of beach with umbrellas and more loungers. Also included is food at the club's alfresco restaurant, drink service and a beachside massage.

Zenzi Beach Bar and Restaurant, on the beach at the end of Calle 10, is a comfy retreat for a day at the beach. Relaxed and laid back, it has lounge chairs and umbrellas lined up on the sand and a menu of bar food and cocktails. The music is more laid back as well. There's no entry fee and you can use the amenities as long as you purchase food and drink, so arrive early, especially on weekends.

Outdoor activities like sailing and deep-sea fishing excursions as well as snorkeling and scuba diving trips are all easily arranged. Water sports operators rent kayaks and paddleboards, and a few offer parasailing flights.

Dive Shop Mexico, at the corner of 5th Avenue and Calle 20 Norte (a block north of Avenida Constituyentes), organizes freshwater cenote cavern and ocean reef scuba diving and snorkeling trips. Seasonal activities include swimming with whale sharks during the summer months and bull shark dives in the winter months. Excursions to cenotes usually depart in the morning. If you've never been scuba diving, PADI courses and certifications are offered. Phone (984) 803-3174.

The Playa Scuba Dive Center, at Calle 4 Norte and Avenida 15 Norte (two blocks north of Avenida Juárez), offers snorkel tours around Playa and Cozumel, swimming with whale sharks from June to September and dive excursions to Dos Ojos, Calavera, El Eden and Gran cenotes. One-day basic scuba diving instruction (the “resort course”) as well as a 3-day open water PADI course with knowledgeable instructors is available. Phone (984) 803-2403.

Cruise ship passengers and day visitors from Cancún take advantage of the Hard Rock Golf Club Riviera Maya, off Paseo Xaman-Ha in the Playacar hotel zone. This 18-hole course, designed by Robert Von Hagge, has a challenging layout of narrow fairways and small greens surrounded by lush, well-maintained vegetation. There's a clubhouse, pro shop and spa on the premises. If you're a guest at a resort affiliated with the club, greens fee drop significantly, food and beverages are included and round-trip transportation is provided. For additional information and tee times phone (984) 873-4990.

The Greg Norman-designed 18-hole course at the Golf Club El Camaleón Mayakoba, on the grounds of the Fairmont Mayakoba resort hotel, is laid out along the Caribbean shore in a setting of mangroves and jungle. Here the golf carts are equipped with a satellite positioning system that tracks your game. For more information phone (984) 206-3088.

The Paul B. Dye-designed 18-hole course at the Iberostar Playa Paraiso Golf Club, off Mex. 307 Km 298 near the Iberostar Grand Paraiso Hotel, challenges golfers with deep bunkers and unconventional hazards. A round here is also a good value; the rate includes a cart, food and beverages. For more information phone 01 (800) 849-1047 (toll-free long distance within Mexico) Mon.-Fri. 9-8, Sat. 9-2.

Guests staying at resorts affiliated with certain golf clubs can take advantage of reduced greens fees and transportation connections. Check with the concierge where you're staying regarding course locations and guest privileges.

Shopping and Nightlife

A lucha libre mask is a very popular souvenir, and many shops have a selection of these colorful masks worn by Mexico's professional wrestlers. At La Sirena, on 5th Avenue at the corner of Calle 26, you can also purchase materials to make your own customized lucha libre mask. This shop carries a nice selection of items—tin-framed mirrors, shawls, Guadalupe Virgin figurines—from all over the country.

The Converse Store, on 5th Avenue just north of Calle 16, sells Chuck Taylor Converse high-tops hand-painted with colorful Mexican designs. These custom sneakers are created by kids who live in a community in the state of Oaxaca, and all sales directly benefit this grass-roots art project.

Jellyfish, on Calle 4 between 5th and 10th avenues, sells really cool handmade lamps fashioned from coconuts, pumpkins and gourds. These hanging lamps cast different shapes and colors on the wall depending on what type of light source is installed. Pachamama, in the Calle Corazón mall on 5th Avenue (between calles 14 and 16), has a great selection of quality Mexican folk art, including lots of Day of the Dead-inspired crafts.

Galería de Arte, on 5th Avenue between calles 6 and 8, encompasses a collection of galleries displaying paintings and other works by Mexican artists. Unlike at many of the souvenir shops, credit cards are accepted, and they will also carefully wrap and ship your purchases. Phone (984) 879-3389. Another high-quality gallery is the Riviera Art Gallery, on Calle 20 between 5th and 10th avenues. It deals in contemporary paintings, photographs, sculptures and prints of original works by both established and emerging artists from Mexico and other parts of the world.

Spend lots of money on stylish men's and women's clothing, scarves, handbags and accessories at Pineda Covalin, on Fifth Avenue between calles 26 and 28. This fashion boutique incorporates iconic Mexican cultural motifs into many of its designs. Velas Artesanales Candle Boutique, Avenida 1 Norte at Avenida Constituyentes (a block east of Fifth Avenue), sells handmade candles that come in all shapes and sizes.

Experience one of Mexico's quintessential beverages at Casa Tequila, on 5th Avenue between calles 4 and 6. You can learn about the different types of tequila, such as blanco (silver), reposado (aged) and añejo (extra aged), and they'll let you sample before you purchase. The colonial-style building's exterior wall art is illuminated at night.

If you prefer mall-type shopping and chain retailers, Playa has a couple of choices. Paseo del Carmen, between 5th and 10th avenues (a block south of Avenida Juárez and a block west of the ferry pier), is an open-air mall with stores like Ultrafemme, American Apparel and the Harley Davidson Store, along with several franchise restaurants. Quinta Alegría, on Fifth Avenue just south of Avenida Constituyentes, has stateside chains like Nike, Victoria's Secret, Forever 21, American Eagle Outfitters and Starbucks.

The evening is when 5th Avenue really comes alive; people flock to restaurants and congregate at sidewalk cafés, the sound of reggae fills the air and a carnival-like atmosphere prevails. Calle 12 Norte is another nightlife hot spot; some of Playa's most popular dance clubs line this street.

A locally popular watering hole is Bar Ranita, on Calle 10 between Fifth Avenue and Avenida 10 Norte (adjacent to the La Rana Cansada Hotel). Mingle with locals and expats at this friendly, laid-back bar with rustic Mexican décor and tables in a courtyard festooned with bougainvillea. There's often live music, too.

Mandala, Calle 12 and Avenida 1 Norte, is one of Playa's hippest dance clubs. Its three levels include a street-level bar and a rooftop terrace. The atmosphere is rather swanky and the décor decidedly plush. DJs spin everything from techno and hip-hop to house and old-school disco. The cover charge is $10-$20 (U.S.) and the dress code is casual (no swimsuits, though). There's also an open bar. Phone (984) 879-4189.

Like the Cancún original, the Playa del Carmen outpost of Coco Bongo, Av. 10 Norte #221 (at the corner of Calle 12), presents high-energy stage shows featuring Cirque du Soleil-style acrobats/dancers and pop icon impersonators. Other times there are live bands or DJs spinning loud rock. The steep cover charge includes an open bar; phone (984) 803-5939.

Kitxen (pronounced “kitchen”), on 5th Avenue just north of Calle 20, is a small place featuring live music—bands from all over Mexico and the Caribbean—almost every night. There's no kitchen on the premises, but you will be served complimentary popcorn with your drink of choice.

If you'd rather not stand in line and/or deal with crowds of exuberant clubbers, the PlayaCrawl tour does the work for you. This guided excursion visits three different spots, complete with VIP entry, seating in reserved areas and open bar or bottle service from 10 p.m. to 3 a.m. Tips and round-trip transportation to the meeting point are not included. The tour is offered nightly starting at 10:15. The cost is $75 per person (minimum age 18). For additional information and to make reservations phone (888) 537-9797 (from the United States).

Dining

Churros, sold from street carts, are sticks of dough pressed through a tube shaped like a star, then fried in oil and rolled in cinnamon sugar or filled with fruit jam or melted chocolate. Another tasty on-the-go snack is tacos al pastor, shredded, marinated pork cooked on a rotisserie, heaped on a small corn tortilla and garnished with chopped onions, cilantro and a slice of pineapple.

For a sweet break stop at Ah Cacao Chocolate Café, on 5th Avenue at Calle 30. Sit at one of the little sidewalk tables, linger over an iced coffee or a mocha flavored with Mexican cacao and indulge in one of their signature brownies—or try the Chocolate Maya, a dairy-free concoction of cacao and spices. There's also free Wi-Fi, although the connection can be slow if the place is crowded. Another branch is on Avenida Constituyentes at 5th Avenue.

Although 5th Avenue is lined with restaurants, don't let that limit your culinary exploring. Babe's Noodles & Bar, on Calle 10 between 5th and 10th avenues, is an international smorgasbord—Swedish owned, a menu emphasizing Thai and Vietnamese dishes, décor that features Barbie dolls, lava lamps and Hollywood pin-ups. Order an appetizer of spring rolls filled with crunchy veggies, served with peanut sauce, and Thai-style noodles in green or coconut curry—or perhaps Swedish meatballs in a cream gravy. Eat in the Buddha Garden, an open-air terrace surrounded by tropical trees and hung with Asian lanterns.

A bit off the beaten tourist path is La Pesca, on 30th Avenue between Calle 16 and Avenida Constituyentes (look for the thatched palapa roof). Some locals say it serves the best seafood in town. Sip a mango margarita while deciding how you want your whole fish prepared (your server will present the catches of the day). Other menu standbys are the ceviches, octopus (pulpo) in a spicy sauce and cazuela de camarones (shrimp casserole). If you're not in the mood for seafood, order fajitas.

Playa is pretty casual, and you won't need to dress up even at the more expensive places in town. Tailored resort wear is appropriate for dinner at fine-dining establishments in the luxury resorts. There's no need to watch what you order at restaurants that target the tourist trade. Use your own judgment regarding local hangouts or street food, but as a general rule if it's cooked it should be safe to eat. See the Lodgings & Restaurants section for AAA Diamond designated dining establishments.

Things to Do

Rancho Punta Venado

Rio Secreto

Xcaret

Xplor