Capital of the state of Michoacán, Morelia (Moh-REH-lee-ah) was founded in 1541. It was first known as Valladolid, after the Spanish birthplace of New Spain's first viceroy, Antonio de Mendoza. The name was changed in 1828 to honor native son José María Morelos, who became a general for and hero of the Mexican War of Independence.
Local building ordinances require that all new construction in the historic downtown area conform to the prevailing, richly decorated Spanish colonial architectural style. The Church and College of las Rosas (Templo y Colegio de las Rosas), established in the late 16th century as a Dominican convent, is home to the oldest school for liturgical music in the Western Hemisphere. This impressive building is on Avenida Santiago Tapia, 2 blocks north of Plaza de Armas, the main plaza. Visitors are welcome to attend rehearsals of Morelia's famed Boys' Choir, which has given performances in Rome and at Carnegie Hall.
An aqueduct (El Acueducto) dating from 1789 was once the primary means of bringing water to the city. It extends for more than a mile and is made up of 253 arches—the tallest 25 feet in height—that are illuminated at night. Some of the arches line two sides of Parque Villalongín and shelter small shops and private homes.
Extending east from this small park is Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel, a tree-shaded, three-block-long pedestrian street lined on both sides with stone benches. It runs to the Guadalupe Sanctuary (Santuario de Guadalupe) on Calzada Ventura Puente. This typically lavish baroque church was built in the early 18th century, although the highly ornate interior dates from the early 20th century.
The Michoacán State Museum (Museo del Estado) is half a block west of Plaza de Armas at Av. Guillermo Prieto #176. It has some nice examples of pre-Columbian pottery, as well as a collection of clothing and household items and a few paintings of local 18th- and 19th-century notables. The building housing the museum was once the residence of self-designated Mexican emperor Agustín Iturbide. Phone (443) 313-0629.
Folkloric dance performances and music recitals are regularly scheduled; check with the State Tourism Office for locations. Band concerts take place at Plaza de Armas on Sundays.
The Morelia Fair (Expo Feria Michoacán), held over 3 weeks from mid-June to early July, is a traditional state fair showcasing livestock and produce displays. In addition to a celebration of the city's founding in 1541, it also offers lots of live music performances. The event takes place at the Morelia Fairgrounds, west of downtown.
Such international artists as Philip Glass and the Kronos Quartet as well as nationally renowned orchestras like the Mexico City Philharmonic perform concerts during the Miguel Bernal Jimenez Music Festival (Festival de Música de Morelia), held from mid- to late November. The schedule of events also includes concerts for children. What makes this festival particularly special is the choice of venues, which includes architectural showcases like the Government Palace and the Municipal Palace. Along with concerts there are film showings and art exhibitions. Tickets for individual concerts should be purchased in advance.
Practicalities
General Francisco J. Mújica International Airport is about 20 miles (32 km) northeast of the city via Mex. 48-D or Mex. 120 (Carretera Acambaro/San José Huajámbaro/Morelia). American Airlines, United and Volaris offer direct flights from the United States. Other airlines that provide service to the airport include Aeroméxico and Aeromar. Airport-affiliated taxi services charge about $25 (U.S.) per person between the airport and the city center.First-class bus service to Morelia from Mexico City's Terminal de Autobuses del Poniente (Western Terminal) is offered by ETN. The central bus station is near the intersection of avenidas Eduardo Ruíz and Gomez Farias, a couple of blocks northwest of the main plaza. A newer station, Terminal de Autobuses Morelia, is in the northwestern part of the city off Periférico Paseo de la República, across from the football stadium (Estadio José María Morelos y Pavón).
Buses, taxicabs and combis (usually white VW vans) all provide public transportation. Buses can be helpful for getting to and from Cuauhtémoc Woods Park and the Aqueduct via Avenida Madero, but they move slowly along the crowded streets during rush hours. Combi vehicles have different-colored stripes depending on their destination. Taxis are not metered. The average in-town fare is normally about $3-$5 (U.S.); agree on the amount before getting in the cab.
City Layout
Large, tree-lined Plaza de Armas is bounded on the north by Avenida Francisco I. Madero and on the south by Calle Allende. It also is known as the Plaza of the Martyrs (Plaza de los Mártires) in honor of the rebel priests who were executed during Mexico's War of Independence. The square is surrounded by colonial-era buildings, and this part of the city is pedestrian-friendly (although congested with vehicles and vendors). Almost all of Morelia's visitor attractions are within walking distance of the plaza.Downtown street names change north and south of Avenida Madero (Mex. 15), which is the principal east-west artery. Two blocks west of Plaza de Armas, Avenida López Rayón becomes Gómez Farias north of Avenida Madero. A block west of the plaza, Calzada Galeana becomes Nigromante north of Madero. Avenida Abasolo, which runs along the west side of Plaza de Armas, becomes Guillermo Prieto north of Madero; a block east of Plaza de Armas, Avenida García Obeso becomes Juárez north of Madero.
East-west thoroughfares change names at the cathedral. West of the cathedral Avenida Madero is Poniente (Pte.); to the east it is Oriente (Ote.). Calle Allende, which runs along the south side of Plaza de Armas, becomes Valladolid once east of the cathedral.
Visitor Centers
Michoacán State Tourism Office (Secretaría de Turismo)
Things to Do
Cathedral of MoreliaAlfredo Zalce Museum of Contemporary Art
Nearby Destinations
About 32 kilometers (20 miles) north of Morelia on Mex. 43 is an unusual 19th-century causeway across Lake Cuitzeo. The town of Cuitzeo, on the lake's north shore, contains one of the region's two 17th-century Augustinian monasteries; the other is in the city of Yuríria, north of Cuitzeo and a short distance east off Mex. 43.Two national parks with scenic views are east of Morelia on Mex. 15. José María Morelos National Park (Parque Nacional Insurgente José María Morelos) is about 26 kilometers (16 miles) east of the city. Cerro de Garnica National Park (Parque Nacional Cerro de Garnica), which has two miradores (observation points) overlooking the rugged Mil Cumbres (Thousand Peaks) landscape, is another 24 kilometers (15 miles) farther east. From here, Mex. 15 continues winding through steep mountains and dense forests to the town of Ciudad Hidalgo.