South of San Miguel, Avenida Rafael Melgar becomes the coastal highway (Costera Sur) and passes several beach and snorkeling spots. Heading south, the first beach club worth a stop is The Money Bar, next to the Fiesta Americana All Inclusive Hotel (watch for the signed hotel turn-off on the main road). This large palapa restaurant has beach chairs, umbrellas and a booth that rents snorkel equipment. The snorkeling is decent—offering things to see just offshore along the Dzul-Ha Reef.
The beach at Chankanaab Adventure Beach Park is studded with palapas that provide welcome shade, the sand is soft and powdery, and there are opportunities for snorkeling, diving and interactive dolphin swims. South of the park off the Costera Sur (coastal highway), beautiful Playa San Francisco is hugely popular with those on cruise vacations. Here you'll find public showers and changing rooms, as well as the Carlos 'n Charlies and Playa San Francisco beach clubs. Drinks, food, beach chairs, shade and snorkel gear can all be had for moderate prices and are what to buy on-site.
For a mellower beach scene, continue south to the Playa Palancar beach club (watch for signs). You'll find the usual palapa seafood restaurant and beach chairs, minus the cruise ship crowds. For snorkelers, the main draw is an opportunity to see a relatively shallow section of the famous Palancar Reef. Boats leave from shore and charge about $40 (U.S.) per person for a guided 90-minute snorkel tour.
The eastern (windward) coast is far less developed and thus more dramatic, especially if one is looking for what to do for adventure travel. The beaches, interspersed among rocky coves, are frequently empty. The open Caribbean is intensely turquoise, but the surf and undertows are often strong; swim at your own risk.
Near the entrance to Punta Sur Park, hand-painted signs with images of Bob Marley direct day-trippers to the Freedom in Paradise Reggae Beach Bar and Grill (Rasta Bar for short). This two-story palapa restaurant has a relaxed tropical feel and sports the requisite red, green and yellow rasta colors, with the reggae icon's tunes playing on constant repeat. The beach is gorgeous, but mostly rocky and not good for swimming.
From the southern end of the island at Punta Celarain, a paved road follows the coast north toward Punta Morena. Dotting the coastline are several beach clubs; this is where to eat, sip a margarita, clock some serious hammock time and watch the surf roll in.
For sunbathing or a lazy beach stroll, try the long powder-white stretch of sand at the appropriately named Playa Bonita. For swimming, the calmest windward shore waters are usually found at Chen Río Beach, a protected cove farther up the road. There are palapa bars at both beaches, but there are better views and better food places at Coconuts, a few minutes' drive north. It's perched on a high bluff overlooking the Caribbean; ask for an outdoor table to fully appreciate the unbeatable ocean panorama.
Located roughly halfway between Coconuts and the Carretera Transversal (cross-island road) turn-off, the Punta Morena beach club dishes up impressive lunches on a beachfront, white canvas-shaded patio. The fish fajitas are delicious, and a soundtrack of mellow new age music encourages chilling out.
Near Punta Morena the road runs into the end of the east-west Carretera Transversal (cross-island road), about 15 kilometers (9 miles) from San Miguel. Playa Oriente, the rocky beach, is scenic but not safe for swimming. You could, however, spend an afternoon hanging out at Mezcalito's beach club feasting on barbecued shrimp and knocking back ice-cold cervezas.
The San Gervasio Ruins are also north of and accessible from the cross-island road. At Km 17.5 on the Costera Sur, a turn-off leads inland about 3 kilometers (2 miles) to El Cedral. One small building is all that remains at this archeological site, believed to be the oldest on the island and the one first discovered by the Spanish.
A white-with-red-trim arch over the road marks the entrance to the small farming settlement of Cedral. The Fiesta of Santa Cruz, which takes place in late April and early May, is Cozumel's oldest annual celebration. The festivities include horse races, craft exhibitions, concerts, sporting events and such regional cultural performances as the Dance of the Hog Head, and there are lots of food places. Shuttle buses run regularly between San Miguel and Cedral during this popular event.