It's probably safe to say that most visitors come to Los Cabos to bask in the sunshine, do some deep-sea fishing, play a round or two of golf, drink a few margaritas, maybe snag a silver souvenir at a jewelry store and, in general, just hang out. But if you've got a car, two day trips will show you a different side of Baja, one closer to the “real” Mexico.
La Paz Day Trip
Head north on Mex. 1 from San José del Cabo to the port city of La Paz (about a 3-hour drive). The narrow, two-lane road winds through a harsh landscape of sand, scrubby brush, the occasional cactus and past a few small towns; the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains can be seen in the western distance. La Paz, the capital of the state of Baja California Sur, is a bustling city where the emphasis is more on industry than tourism, but several museums and a university add a touch of culture.
The city faces the Bay of La Paz, which flows into the Gulf of California. Downtown's wide, winding malecón (waterfront esplanade) is accented with benches, statues and palm trees. Small boats bob peacefully on intensely blue water. Across the street are restaurants (many with expansive windows open to the seaside walkway), gift shops, hotels and bars. A favored activity with locals and visitors alike is an evening stroll along the malecón, enjoying the reliably spectacular sunsets.
Since the 1950s La Paz has been a favorite with anglers, scuba divers and snorkelers who appreciate the bountiful waters, warm climate, affordable hotels and the friendliness of the locals. North of town are quiet beaches interspersed with commercial docks and a port where ferries depart for Mazatlán and Topolobampo on the mainland.
Todos Santos Day Trip
About an hour's drive away, but with a totally different vibe from workaday La Paz, is Todos Santos. As you approach town on two-lane Mex. 19 it suddenly appears as an oasis in the midst of a parched desert environment, with welcoming palm trees standing in stark contrast to the arid surroundings.
This charming city is a well-known artists' colony. Restored buildings along the main street and dusty side streets house galleries featuring works by regional artists and shops selling quality hand-crafted items and jewelry. Boutique inns, upscale local restaurants and a good number of expatriates make for a relaxed, bohemian atmosphere. And despite a lingering urban legend and the fact that it's “on a dark desert highway,” the Hotel California in town is not the one made famous in the same-named 1976 album and song by the Eagles.
Although it's not on the ocean, Todos Santos is only about 2 miles from the pounding Pacific waves. The most accessible beaches are south of town along Mex. 19, and many of them are prized by surfers. Wide, mostly deserted and usually reached by unmarked dirt roads, these beaches aren't suitable for swimming because of rip currents and rough surf, but you can enjoy their rugged beauty on a nice long walk.