Northern California

Most Americans who have never been west of the Rockies have heard of Yosemite Valley, Big Sur, Lake Tahoe and Wine Country. Thanks to movies and television, California and all its associations—surfing, environmentalists chaining themselves to condemned trees, pollution, earthquakes—have all entered the popular imagination.

When a fad sweeps the country, odds are that it started in California. The sense of style here is often imitated, the cuisine savored around the world.

Besides physical appeal, perhaps nothing epitomizes the “Left Coast” more than the people and their almost mythical lifestyle. Populated by entrepreneurs, visionaries, counterculture radicals, trendsetters and a few eccentrics, the state is fertile ground for innovations and technological breakthroughs. No wonder Americans looking to the future often face west.

About California

The Golden State

Although unusually energetic, the duo described above is realistic. It's the setting that seems unreal. Skiing in the mountains within hours of a walk on a picture-postcard beach? Both within reach of a major city? Does such a place really exist?

The place is real. As you've probably guessed, this could only be California.

From that first cry of “Eureka!” at Sutter's Mill to the chaotic tidal wave of the ensuing gold rush and the tragedy of the San Francisco earthquake decades later, drama has been one of the state's most notable traits.

The California landscape itself is dramatic. Breathtaking only begins to describe Big Sur's rocky, sea-splashed cliffs, the Sierra Nevada's glacier-sculpted peaks or vineyards flourishing in dappled sunlight.

Vistas impossible to truly capture on film abound in Yosemite National Park. It's difficult to comprehend the colossal escarpments and the height of its waterfalls. And what camera could do justice to the grandeur of Half Dome or El Capitan?

Zoom in on the mountains, valleys and shores and you'll find a fascinating array of plants and animals. Off the coast, migrating whales are the stars while sea lions and playful sea otters make their appearances closer to shore. California's signature flora includes giant redwoods and giant sequoias.

The Original Settlers

The results of their labors take myriad forms: centuries-old Spanish missions that dot the coast; the futuristic glass-and-steel skyscrapers of San Francisco; the lovely beach resort of Carmel-by-the-Sea; and the quaint gold rush towns sprinkled along the western slopes of the Sierra Nevadas.

Recreation

San Francisco Bay draws wind surfers, with the Presidio's Crissy Field offering amazing urban views and the chance to sail under the Golden Gate Bridge.

Anglers can rent saltwater fishing gear in many coastal towns; salmon is among the most popular catches. Freshwater fishing and boating are plentiful, too. Lake Tahoe and Shasta Lake draw small fleets of pleasure craft on balmy weekends. In addition to being California's second-largest freshwater lake, Clear Lake near Kelseyville is one of the nation's finest bass repositories.

April to October is best for white-water rafting on California's rushing rivers. The Lower Klamath and the South Fork of the American River are ideal for families, as the excitement of maneuvering rapids is interspersed with the calm of peaceful floats. The more daring should try the North Fork of the American or the Tuolumne River. A bonus of rafting trips is the chance to see great blue herons, ospreys, bald eagles, river otters and deer.

If hiking or backpacking is your sport, consider the California Coastal Trail or the Pacific Crest Trail, both stretching from Mexico to Canada. Check out Mount Tamalpais and Mount Diablo state parks and the Golden Gate National Recreation Area near San Francisco. Also, Marin County, on the north end of the Golden Gate Bridge, offers mountain biking trails.

Hikers at Lake Tahoe should not miss the views from the Tahoe Rim Trail. Then there's Yosemite, which deserves its reputation for amazing scenery. Don't limit yourself to the valley floor; the park's high country, accessible in summer, offers spectacular vistas.

Many parks and recreation areas are great for camping, too. In fact, Tahoe National Forest claims to have 1,400 camping sites.

California boasts some of the nation's finest golfing. Monterey Peninsula courses offer a choice of windswept ocean views or forested valleys; those near Pebble Beach are probably the best known.

When temperatures drop, Californians head outdoors for great skiing and snowboarding. The Lake Tahoe area alone is has more than a dozen ski resorts.

Fast Facts

About the State

Area

Capital

Highest Point

Lowest Point

Time Zone(s)

Population

Gambling

Minimum Age For Gambling

Regulations

Teen Driving Laws

Seat Belt/Child Restraint

Distracted Driving Laws

Helmets for Motorcyclists

Radar Detectors

Move Over Law

Firearms Laws

Special Regulations

Holidays

New Year's Day, Jan. 1; Martin Luther King, Jr. Birthday, Jan. (3rd Mon.); Presidents Day, Feb. 19; César Chávez Day, Apr. 1; Memorial Day, May (last Mon.); Juneteenth, June 19; Independence Day, July 4; Labor Day, Sept. (1st Mon.); Veterans Day, Nov. 11; Thanksgiving and day after, Nov. (4th Thurs. and Fri.); Christmas Day, Dec. 25.

Money

Taxes

Visitor Information

Information Centers

Road Conditions

Further Information

National Forest Info

Fishing & Hunting

Recreation Information

National Parks

Exploring N. California

California's Outback

To explore this backcountry, begin on I-10 in Los Angeles and head east. Seven miles past the Upland turnoff, go north on I-15 headed for Victorville and Barstow. In Barstow visit the Desert Discovery Center for information about geology, desert plants and animals, recreation, and road and weather conditions; phone (760) 252-6060.

Interstate 40 begins at Barstow; take it and go east. The highway stretches through an arid expanse where cactus and brush conceal small wildlife, dry lakes signify prehistoric seas and mountains shelter old mining sites.

Approximately 80 miles from Barstow, Kelbaker Road—a narrow, paved road at exit 78—runs north of I-40 through desert vistas that include mountains, ancient lava beds and the dramatic Kelso Dunes, a sand formation rising 600 feet from the desert floor. The only town is Kelso, once an important stop for the Union Pacific Railroad—the depot now is a visitor information center with regional exhibits.

Because of the poor condition of the east-west roads between Essex and Kelbaker roads, it is advisable to return to I-40, then Kelbaker Road. Thirty-five miles north of Kelso, Kelbaker meets I-15 in the tiny town of Baker. North out of Baker, take SR 127 about 59 miles to SR 178.

Turn west and drive over the Greenwater mountain range and through Greenwater Valley into Death Valley National Park. Here is a vast region of remarkable scenery: sand dunes and rocks sculpted by wind, and sub-sea-level valleys bordered by mountain walls of every hue. The lowest point in the United States (282 feet below sea level) lies within the national park, and not far away Telescope Peak rises to 11,049 feet.

As SR 178 curves north it becomes Badwater Road and, having offered some spectacular views along the way, reaches the visitor center at Furnace Creek. Another 55 miles north from Furnace Creek brings you to extravagant Scotty's Castle (currently closed due to flood damage and expected to remain closed until fall 2021).

Leave Death Valley by driving south and west on SR 190, then south on Panamint Valley Road. Within 14 miles the highway becomes Trona-Wildrose Road as it goes through Panamint Valley, a smaller version of Death Valley. Mountains rise on either side of the highway, and side roads lead to dry lakes or old mines.

At Trona pick up SR 178 leading southwest to Ridgecrest. From there China Lake Boulevard goes south to US 395. Continue down to the Randsburg turnoff. Randsburg, along with the camps at Johannesburg and Red Mountain, was the site of frenzied gold and silver mining in the late 1800s.

Twenty-one miles west of Randsburg, Red Rock-Randsburg Road intersects SR 14. You can choose to make a side trip to Red Rock Canyon State Park by turning north on SR 14 and traveling 4 miles. The sight of the park's fantastically shaped cliffs and columns makes this a worthwhile detour.

Back on SR 14 head south through Mojave and Rosamond. Within about 1.5 hours after leaving Red Rock Canyon you will be in the Antelope Valley, with the San Gabriel Mountains just ahead. SR 14 takes you through the western portion of the Angeles National Forest, then ends at I-5, the highway leading south to Los Angeles.

Gold Country & Lake Tahoe

Your vehicle should be in good condition with good brakes. Remember that down-shifting can sometimes be used to slow your vehicle instead of or in addition to using your brakes. Tire chains should be carried in all mountain areas from mid-October through April. For up-to-date travel advisory information, phone Caltrans at (800) 427-7623.

Perhaps one of the most exciting and scenic drives in Northern California is that from the flat farmland of Sacramento to the resort area of Lake Tahoe. The area changes from rich, black soil with deciduous trees to red clay with its distinctive aroma and pines in the lower Sierras to craggy mountain peaks cloaked in snow.

Begin your trip in Sacramento, the state capital. The restored Old Sacramento area has restaurants, shops and museums, including the impressive California State Railroad Museum. Take US 50 east to Placerville; a placer is a deposit of sand or gravel containing valuable minerals. This once-raucous mining town—infamous for its prosperity and consequent lawlessness—has reminders of its past in its museums, municipally owned gold mine and many buildings constructed 1850-70, including fine Victorian-style residences.

Continue east on US 50 through Camino, originally a station on the Placerville-Lake Tahoe stagecoach route. About 2 miles farther is a road to Apple Hill, where apple farms are open to the public during the fall harvest from mid-September through December. At nearly 20 Christmas tree farms you can taste locally made wines and purchase fruits, nuts, vegetables, apple products, arts and crafts—and, of course, the perfect Christmas tree.

About 10 miles from Camino you come to Pacific House, an 1859 inn which can boast of such guests as Horace Greeley and Mark Twain. On the 30 miles from Camino to Echo Summit you will pass several entrances to Desolation Wilderness, a hiking and backpacking area open only by permit. After passing through Strawberry, another stagecoach stop, you reach Echo Summit at an altitude of 7,382 feet and begin a 22-mile descent to Lake Tahoe.

Lake Tahoe is in a high valley between the Sierra Nevada and the Carson ranges and is one of the premier U.S. winter sports areas. Tahoe's forests were nearly destroyed 1860-90. Lumber was needed for fuel and to support the web of mines constructed beneath Virginia City. The decline of the Comstock Lode was likely the saving grace for Tahoe's forests.

The headquarters of the U.S. Forest Service-Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit provides year-round information about forest activities, including camping, fishing and hiking in summer and cross-country skiing in winter. Phone (530) 543-2600, or TTY (530) 543-0956.

Several companies operate cruises around the lake. These trips offer scenic views of the lakeshore as well as surrounding resorts and estates.

Hotels and gambling establishments have proliferated on the south shore on the Nevada side of the state line. The larger casinos each have several restaurants and coffee shops in which the meals may be both above average in quality and below average in price—the casinos derive most of their income from gambling.

Follow US 50 north and east into Nevada, a particularly scenic drive along the shore of the lake and through Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest. When US 50 merges with US 395 turn north and 3 miles later you are in Carson City, the capital of Nevada. The city's convention and visitors bureau distributes a map of historic sites and attractions.

In downtown Carson City, 2 blocks north of the Nevada State Museum and 3 blocks north of Washington Street at E. William Street, US 50 diverges from US 395 and resumes its eastward course. Take US 50 east for about 7 miles to its intersection with scenic SR 341.

On SR 341 travel north for about 10 miles to Virginia City. This former haunt of such notables as Mark Twain and Bret Harte has been restored to its 1870 boomtown appearance. The town's restored buildings, its many large and small museums, its mine and its railroad can easily keep you busy for an entire day.

Continue northwest on SR 341 until it intersects US 395; take US 395 north into Reno, “The Biggest Little City in the World.” While nationally known for quick and easy marriages and divorces as well as for gambling, it also has fine schools and museums. Not to be missed is the collection of more than 200 antique, classic and special-interest automobiles at the National Automobile Museum.

Now it is time to leave the gambling fever of today and return to yesterday's gold fever. Leave Reno via I-80 heading west, and after 32 miles you are in the small California town of Truckee, where restored 19th-century false-front buildings now house shops and restaurants. As with most of the lakes and rivers in the Sierras, the Truckee River is popular with trout fishermen.

Continuing west along I-80 you will find an exit to the 353-acre Donner Memorial State Park. Only 9 miles farther along I-80 you reach 7,239-foot Donner Pass.

Continuing west you pass exits to Soda Springs, which has a ski museum, and Cisco Grove. Near Emigrant Gap take SR 20 west; this road is lined with tall pines and offers views of old mining camps and sweeping views of the foothills, sometimes as far as 40 miles.

Nevada City was built on seven steep hills, and the streets follow miners' trails. The chamber of commerce offers a brochure outlining a walking tour. Some of its many Victorian-era buildings are a hodgepodge of styles. The town has many restaurants and arts and crafts stores.

Continuing west on SR 20 for 5 miles you come to Grass Valley, once California's richest gold-mining town. The chamber of commerce can provide you with walking tour information. The 845-acre Empire Mine State Historic Park, with California's largest and richest gold mine, and North Star Mining Museum are worthwhile stops.

Head southwest on SR 49 to Auburn and its well-preserved 19th-century buildings. The visitor center has walking tour brochures of Old Town. In addition to the museums, do not miss the 1891 firehouse and the 1849 post office.

Continuing southwest on SR 49 for about 25 miles you come to Coloma, the birthplace of the California gold rush. Most of the town is within the 300 acres of the Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park. The best way to see the park, with its many 1800s buildings and replica of Sutter's Mill, is to first visit the Gold Discovery Museum for a detailed brochure. The more adventurous may enjoy a white-water rafting trip down the American River; several outfitters operate locally.

SR 49 intersects US 50 near Placerville; take US 50 southwest toward Sacramento. About 25 miles from Placerville is the exit for Folsom. Reminders of the past of this 1850s gold rush town remain in a restored four-block section of Sutter Street. Folsom State Prison is 2 miles north of town. The nearly 18,000 acres of Folsom Lake State Recreation Area offer such a variety of recreational opportunities that it is one of the state's most popular multiuse parks.

You have two choices at this point. You can return to US 50 and drive west about 22 miles back to the starting point of Sacramento. Or, if you choose to further explore Gold Country, you will still return to US 50, but head east toward Placerville to pick up SR 49 once again.

When most Californians refer to their state's Gold Country, they mean the portion of SR 49 that runs south from Nevada City to Mariposa. At the junction of US 50 and SR 49, head south on SR 49, which meanders through small towns that once housed miners in their search for gold rush riches.

After about 29 miles you'll arrive at Sutter Creek, where a gold mine tour takes visitors, in hard hats, underground to see gold deposits; once back above ground, they can try panning for gold. Nineteenth-century buildings, shops and galleries recall the town's mining heyday.

The county history museum in Jackson, 4 miles south, is in the 1859 home of one of the city's first residents. The museum features mining memorabilia and a working model of the Kennedy Gold Mine. Like Sutter Creek, Jackson retains a 19th-century ambience.

One of the most famous residents of Angels Camp, on SR 49 just south of SR 4, was Mark Twain, and the town is said to have been the inspiration for his short story “The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County.” SR 49 continues south, crossing New Melones Lake before bending east to Columbia, where the 12 square blocks that constitute Columbia State Historic Park are like a visit to a mid-19th-century boomtown.

Four miles south on SR 49 is the old gold-mining town of Sonora which, as its name implies, was settled by Mexican miners. The highway continues in a westerly direction to Jamestown, once known as “Jimtown,” where gold was discovered nearby along Woods Creek in 1848. Many historic buildings along Main Street now house antique shops and galleries.

The town of Chinese Camp, just north of the Tuolumne River, was so named because of the large number of Chinese immigrant miners who lived there. Across the river near Moccasin is the junction of SR 49 and SR 120. The latter heads east to Yosemite National Park; the former continues south past Coulterville, Bear Valley and Mt. Bullion to Mariposa, the southernmost of the Mother Lode cities.

The Northern Coast

Your target is Sebastopol, a well-known Gravenstein apple orchard, berry and winery center. Small farms and antique and woodcarving shops are at the roadside; a weekend flea market is a popular mecca. In April the countryside blooms during the Apple Blossom Festival with music, food and fun for all as the downtown shops feature local wares.

The countryside is a carpet of orchards and pastures as you approach the redwood-covered mountains where winding SR 116 enters the deep shade and passes occasional small rustic cabins. Crossing the Russian River on a narrow bridge you enter Guerneville, where lodging and shops are an invitation to stop. Here you may swim, canoe, hike or tour a winery.

Anglers driving along the Russian River to the coast through the tiny town of Monte Rio will bite at the sign “Monte Rio Angling Access,” developed by the California Department of Fish and Game. Here, too, is a 7-mile byway drive to Occidental, a popular weekend dining spot.

Your ride will open out of the trees along river-bottom pasturelands to the junction with old SR 1. Turn right and another mile brings you to Jenner and an ocean view. Check your gas tank here, as few refueling facilities lie en route to Fort Bragg.

The 100-mile drive to Fort Bragg and on to Rockport—one of the most scenic on the Pacific Coast—hugs the shoreline as it winds sharply around headlands high above the ocean and offering views of narrow coves and inlets. Occasionally it turns in for straight stretches, passing farms and cattle.

Visit Fort Ross, a trading post established by Russian fur traders in 1812. Most of the redwood buildings are faithfully reconstructed.

A few miles farther is Salt Point State Park, extending 4 miles along the rugged coastline. This is an excellent place for camping, picnicking, fishing and skin diving and has marked trails for hiking and horseback riding. The scenery varies dramatically from protected, sandy coves to sharp bluffs and sheer sandstone caves. The park has tidal pools rich in marine organisms.

Just down the road is Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve, a springtime mecca for flower lovers.

The well-spaced little towns of Mendocino County—Gualala, Point Arena and Elk—offer a palette of ever-changing scenery. Whale watching from the light station at Point Arena, which offers daily tours, is spectacular December through April. California gray whales stop briefly in the cove near the lighthouse before voyaging down the coast to Baja California. The cove has a concrete and steel 330-foot pier, 15 feet above high-water level. Fishing from the pier requires no state license.

Little River, formerly a lumber port, is now a hostelry hub. Less than 3 miles north is Van Damme State Park, with an underwater skin diving park, a bike trail, fishing and excellent camping. Fern Canyon, via Ukiah Airport Road south of the park entrance on SR 1, or Pygmy Forest Self-Guiding Trail via Little River Road from SR 1, provide a view of freak dwarfed pines and cypress trees growing on the coastal shelf.

Continue driving on SR 1 to Mendocino, a former lumber port that is now an artists' and vacation colony with quiet shops and an unhurried atmosphere. The Mendocino coastline, the setting for many movies, is a spectacle of nature.

Five miles north at Jughandle State Natural Reserve is a remarkable “ecological staircase,” a series of terraces formed beneath the ocean by the action of the waves. Five terraces support a distinctive association of plants, animals and soil that many scientists believe to be the finest record anywhere of the glacial movement during the great Pleistocene Ice Age.

Just 2 miles south of Fort Bragg is Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens, a seaside garden of native and ornamental plants in a woodland setting.

If you have not stayed overnight along the way, Fort Bragg offers traditional and B&B lodgings, restaurants, shops and entertainment. Stop for a map from the chamber of commerce and take the historic walking tour. Noyo Harbor offers sandy beaches, tide pools, ocean fishing, year-round seal watching and seasonal whale watching. Train buffs will enjoy riding the “Old 45” steam locomotive (The Skunk) through the redwoods from Fort Bragg.

State campsite reservations are available through ReserveCalifornia, for MacKerricher State Park just 3 miles north of Fort Bragg.

Continuing north on SR 1, you pass through the community of Westport, a picturesque remnant of a New England-like coastal mill town. Abalone and surf fishing are popular sports. Your route goes onward past Rockport for 28 miles to the junction of US 101 at Leggett, marking the official start of your journey north through vast preserves of towering coastal redwoods.

Richardson Grove State Park is the northbound traveler's first look at giant redwoods in the 1,000-acre park along US 101. Camping, swimming and fishing are permitted, and there are trails for hiking, bicycling and scenic walks, including Lookout Trail and Toumey Trail.

After driving 5 miles north to Richardson Grove you will find Benbow Lake and State Recreation Area, with 786 forested acres and the lake.

There is a visitor center at the south exit of US 101 at Garberville. This also is a take-off point for Shelter Cove, King Range National Conservation Area, Sinkyone Wilderness State Park and a section of Humboldt Redwoods State Park.

Ahead 6 miles on US 101 is the turn-off to scenic SR 254, a two-lane, 31-mile road parallel to US 101 that traverses the area known as the “Avenue of the Giants.” The 52,222-acre Humboldt Redwoods State Park winds along this beautiful section of highway sprinkled with memorial groves and picnic groves, an interpretive center, lodgings, restaurants, grocery, souvenir and art shops, and other services.

Continuing on US 101 through Scotia, Rio Dell and Fortuna, you travel on to Eureka and Arcata. This has been a major lumber center, along with fishing and shipping, since the 1850s. The Carson Mansion, not open for tours, is a splendid example of classical Victorian architecture. An aviary delight is the National Wildlife Refuge at the south end of Humboldt Bay. As you continue on north, Trinidad and Sue-meg State Park are fine beach and picnicking areas.

At Orick, a southern gateway to Redwood National and State Parks, there is an information center at Freshwater Lagoon. Visits to Lady Bird Johnson Grove and Elk Meadow Day Use Area are a must; however, watch out for the Roosevelt elk that roam the beaches and meadows.

Upon entering Del Norte County you will cross the Klamath Bridge into Klamath. This is part of the Yurok Indian Reservation and a magnet for steelhead and salmon fishermen. The Klamath Salmon Festival in early August is a popular event. North of Klamath is the Trees of Mystery park where Paul Bunyan stands guard over unusual redwoods. Indian artifacts fill a museum.

Within Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, in Redwood National and State Parks, are more than 6,000 acres of redwoods, rhododendrons, azaleas and other spring and summer flowers.

Further north is Crescent City, with its beautiful crescent-shaped beach and harbor. At low tide a walk to the Battery Point Lighthouse is a seasonal delight—just don't stay too long! There are many fine restaurants, museums, galleries and shops. Just half a mile north are Earl and Tolowa lakes, where dunes, marshes and ponds make for excellent bird-watching.

For a flower lover's treat, travel 1.5 miles north to Smith River, the “Easter Lily Capital of the World.”

To start the trip back to San Francisco, drive south on US 101 to Eureka. You may take a side trip and visit the beautiful Victorian village of Ferndale, now a State Historic Landmark; take US 101 exit 692 to SR 211 at Fernbridge and drive over the historic 1911 bridge. A walking tour map is available at most shops. The wonderful gingerbread buildings are well preserved. The services here are varied.

You have a choice now of either returning to US 101 or, as an alternate route, experiencing the beautiful “Lost Coast of California” by continuing on SR 211 (Mattole Road) for 45 miles past Cape Mendocino and inland to Honeydew. If you wish to continue on to the King Range National Conservation Area and Shelter Cove via Wilder Range, be advised that this is an unpaved road.

Continue on Mattole Road from Honeydew through Humboldt Redwoods State Park to US 101 and drive south to Redway. From Redway, Briceland and Shelter Cove roads wind 25 miles to Shelter Cove and Sinkyone Wilderness State Park, giving you breathtaking views of beaches and ocean. There are 4.5 miles of tidal beach for avid beachcombers. South of Shelter Cove, Usal Road is an unpaved county road and very remote. Returning to Redway and US 101, continue south to Leggett.

The most direct route back to the Bay Area is south on US 101 and across the Golden Gate Bridge, but to continue on a scenic tour exit US 101 at Leggett to SR 1, a narrow and winding road. Traveling south approximately 65 miles, leave SR 1, go inland on SR 128 and follow the Navarro River into Anderson Valley.

Northwest of Boonville 8 miles is Hendy Woods State Park with its virgin redwoods, making a great camping spot. On through Philo, with vineyards close by to sample, then to Boonville. It helps to speak the native dialect, “Boontling,” to get along with the locals. Continue to Yorkville and the junction with US 101 just above Cloverdale. The drive from Cloverdale to San Francisco is approximately 90 miles.

San Francisco to Monterey

Soon you pass the rocky promontory Devil's Slide and proceed to gentle, fertile agricultural land where Brussels sprouts, artichokes and flowers grow in abundance and splendor.

Moss Beach has the James V. Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, just off SR 1 via California Avenue, one of the state's most diverse intertidal regions. Courageous surfers challenge the breaking waves along the beach at Pillar Point Harbor, adjacent to Half Moon Bay Airport in Princeton. Beaches in this area also are popular for fishing and whale-watching cruises.

Another 10 miles south is San Gregorio State Beach, one of many tempting beaches along this tour. Año Nuevo State Reserve, 13 miles south of Pescadero, is known for its large colony of northern elephant seals. Their population peaks during the December-through-March breeding season.

Davenport, about 10 miles north of Santa Cruz, was a whaling station in the 1850s. A nearby cement company is an oddity; opened in 1915, it churned concrete for a century. Now closed, the site will eventually be transformed into parkland.

Still viewing the waving ocean shores you enter Santa Cruz, the site of one of Father Junípero Serra's historic California missions.

Santa Cruz and the other Monterey Bay communities of Capitola, Soquel, Aptos and Rio Del Mar are on your path. The 26 miles of Santa Cruz County's coast are scalloped into a succession of state beaches that are the warmest and gentlest ocean waters in northern California.

In addition to Lighthouse Field and Natural Bridges state beaches—where winter migrating monarch butterflies stop, there is Twin Lakes, across from Schwan Lagoon, where you can watch myriad waterfowl. New Brighton, Seacliff and Sunset offer camping among the evergreens. For camping reservations on all state beaches contact ReserveCalifornia.

Capitola is an arts-and-crafts-lover's haven. There are many fine galleries and eateries along the esplanade to explore.

Aptos, an Indian word for “meeting of the streams,” adjoins SR 1 just past Capitola. The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park is the location of the epicenter of the 1989 earthquake. Except for a placard, there is no evidence above ground of the powerful quake.

As you continue on SR 1 toward Monterey, the redwoods level to cultivated farmlands. Apples, strawberries and flowers are the basis of the Watsonville economy.

Maps for walking and driving tours of Watsonville and the Pajaro Valley are available from the chamber of commerce. The county's farm trail headquarters, Country Crossroads, 141 Monte Vista Ave. in Watsonville, has information and a map of farms you can visit and pick produce.

Crossing Elkhorn Slough at Moss Landing there is an 8-mile side drive inland to Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve. The slough is on a migratory flyway and is an important feeding and resting ground for many kinds of waterfowl and shorebirds.

Back on SR 1 it is a few miles to Castroville, “The Artichoke Capital of the World,” and only 15 miles to your destination, Monterey.

The colorful blue Monterey Bay terminates in the vision of historic Monterey, rich with natural beauty and many attractions from Fisherman's Wharf to Cannery Row, the Monterey adobes to city parks and the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Add the 17-Mile Drive to your tour of the peninsula and end at the charming village of Carmel-by-the-Sea for delightful shopping, a stroll on the white sand beach and a visit to Mission San Carlos Borromeo del Rio Carmelo.

To enjoy some of the points you may have missed, return to San Francisco via SR 1 through Santa Cruz, where the boardwalk amusements include an arcade, rides, saltwater taffy and an entertainment center.

The University of California Santa Cruz (UCSC) offers many noteworthy attractions, including a Shakespeare Festival in July and August. You can visit the school's two art galleries, a world-class arboretum, a birds of prey project with wild falcons, a 30-acre farm and a 2-acre garden. Campus tours cover the fascinating architecture.

Leave Santa Cruz and SR 1 via a different scenic route. Just west of the highway's junction with SR 17 take SR 9 (River Street), going north on the redwood-shaded highway.

In Felton, Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park has picnic areas and campgrounds. Consider taking the Santa Cruz Beach Train from Felton to the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk and return.

The oldest state park in California is Big Basin Redwoods State Park, established in 1902. Access is via a 9-mile drive on SR 236 from Boulder Creek, the town with the nearest automotive and other service facilities.

The magnificent 18,000-acre park has about 100 miles of hiking trails, a museum/nature center, a large picnic area, family campsites, several group camping areas and backpacker trail camps. Reservations can be made through ReserveCalifornia.

Leaving the park, SR 236 narrowly winds through the redwoods and rejoins SR 9 at Waterman Gap; therefore, campers and trailers must return on SR 236 to the Boulder Creek junction of SR 9. Whichever your exit route, proceed north on SR 9 for a gradual downhill ride to Saratoga and the junction of SR 85. Take SR 85 north to Cupertino and then continue north on the Junípero Serra Freeway, I-280.

To make a side tour to Stanford University in Palo Alto, exit at Page Mill Expressway to El Camino Real. Turn left to the campus entrance. Resuming your tour on I-280, a last stop can be enjoyed on a clear, sunny day from the top of 1,000-acre Sweeney Ridge, site of the Spanish explorer Gaspar de Portolá's discovery of San Francisco Bay in 1769. This part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area has sweeping views of the Pacific coastline, San Francisco Bay and open space to the south.

To get there, exit I-280 on SR 35 (Skyline Boulevard) to Sneath Lane. Turn left. Major access is from the west end of Sneath Lane. It is a 1.5-mile walk to the Discovery Site. In springtime the hills turn gold with California poppies and dozens of other wildflowers. The Ridge has a great diversity of wildlife.

Return on Sneath Lane to I-280 and enter, driving north to San Francisco and the junction of US 101 to downtown.

San Francisco to Yosemite

For the more direct route, which is 39 miles shorter, continue on I-580 to I-205, heading east across the middle of California's breadbasket. When I-205 meets I-5, follow I-5 north for 2 miles to the SR 120 exit. Take SR 120 east for approximately 28 miles to Oakdale. The city celebrates its cowboy heritage in early April at the Oakdale Rodeo, held outdoors—rain or shine—every year since 1954. Continue east on SR 120, the Northern Yosemite Highway, which has now merged with SR 108. This combination route takes you into Tuolumne County to Yosemite Junction, where SR 120 continues its easterly trek, merging, after about 3 miles, with SR 49.

Steadily gaining in elevation, SR 120 eventually enters the southwestern portion of Stanislaus National Forest before reaching the Big Oak Flat Entrance Station to Yosemite National Park.

For the alternate route, continue on I-580 to SR 132 and turn east to Modesto where SR 99 intersects. Turning south on SR 99 and crossing the Tuolumne River, you travel approximately 35 miles to Merced, then take SR 140 northeast to Mariposa.

Renamed from Logtown, Mariposa is Spanish for “butterfly.” It is one of the major towns along the Golden Chain. The mines around Mariposa yielded some of the richest finds in the Mother Lode. The California State Mining and Mineral Museum, 2 miles south at the county fairgrounds, has one of the world's largest gem and mineral collections. Climbing in altitude on SR 140, past Briceburg, the Merced River guides you through the Stanislaus National Forest to El Portal and the Arch Rock Entrance Station to Yosemite National Park.

When Abraham Lincoln signed the Yosemite Grant in 1864, he gave the state of California the deed to Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. In 1890 Congress declared Yosemite a national park, thanks to the tireless efforts of naturalist John Muir.

The center of activity in Yosemite is Yosemite Valley, which comprises only 7 of the almost 2,000 square miles of the park. One of the best ways to see Yosemite Valley is to leave your car at your hotel, campground or the Half Dome Village day-use lot (shuttle bus stop #1) and take a 2-hour Valley Floor Tour. An informed tour guide will take you to some of the most scenic sites in the park.

You will not want to miss beautiful Bridalveil Falls, named “Pohono, Spirit of the Puffing Wind” by the Ahwahneechee, the Yosemite Indians.

The highest waterfall in North America is Ribbon Falls, which drops 2,425 feet. Other equally beautiful falls are Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall and Horsetail Fall at El Capitan.

About midway through the valley on the north side is El Capitan, the largest single granite monolith on earth. Rock climbers come from all over the world to challenge the summit, which rises 3,593 feet above the valley floor.

The symbol of Yosemite National Park is Half Dome. At a height of 5,000 feet, the split rock is full of mystery. The Yosemite Indians tell a story of an Indian princess and her face stained on the side of the rock.

Most people find they cannot limit their visit to the park to just a day. There are several types of accommodations in Yosemite. You may camp in the high country along Tioga Pass, or there are housekeeping cabins in the valley. These facilities require reservations well in advance. You also may stay at lodges throughout the park or, if you prefer an elegant hotel in a wooded setting, The Majestic Yosemite Hotel (formerly the Ahwahnee) is open all year. Its dining room has long been known for fine cuisine.

Leaving the valley floor from the northwest side, take the New Big Oak Flat Road entrance station past the Tuolumne and Merced groves of giant sequoias to the Big Oak Flat entrance station. Continue on SR 120 approximately 45 miles west down Priest Grade to Moccasin, where SR 49 junctions with SR 120. Heading north on SR 49 through the southern end of the Gold Country is Jamestown, one of the more commercially developed mining towns.

At Railtown 1897 State Historic Park a 19th-century steam locomotive operates spring through fall, weather permitting.

Continuing north to Sonora, the Tuolumne County Museum will have on display many gold rush-era artifacts.

The next stop is 2.5 miles north in Columbia, the best preserved of all mining towns. The old business district is a state historic park that allows for leisurely walks through history.

From Columbia return south on SR 49 to the junction with SR 108. Take SR 108 west approximately 6 miles to the junction with SR 120 and proceed to Knights Ferry. This gold town boasts a covered bridge—a rare sight in California.

Starting back to San Francisco, stay on SR 120 through the Central Valley to I-205 for 12 miles, then take I-580 west. For the next 11 miles the windmill farms stand high on the hills. Continue to the Oakland Bay Bridge and back to “The City by the Bay.”

The Sierras

The next 70 miles lead through farm and cattle country. Along the way you will come to Earlimart and beyond that, Tulare, both with interesting histories to share.

Nine miles north of Tulare at Goshen, take SR 198 east. The highway goes through the attractive town of Visalia, then climbs through the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. Approximately 7 miles beyond Three Rivers, SR 198 becomes Generals Highway as it enters Sequoia National Park at Ash Mountain.

The highway connects Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks and provides an especially scenic 2-hour drive from the entrance station to Grant Grove. (Normally open year-round, the road may be closed for brief periods during heavy winter snowfalls.) On the mountainsides and in the meadows are giant sequoia trees, descendants of those that covered Earth millions of years ago. Throughout the parks are wonderful places to picnic, hike or camp.

Just south of Grant Grove, SR 180 heads back down the mountains, across the Kings River and into Fresno. Then for a sampling of California's Mother Lode, take SR 41 north from Fresno to Oakhurst and turn northwest on SR 49 to Mariposa. Continue on the trail of the gold seekers as you drive to Coulterville.

Eleven miles north of Coulterville go east on SR 120 through Big Oak Flat and Groveland. Soon you are back in the mountains as you travel through Stanislaus National Forest and enter Yosemite National Park at the Big Oak Flat station. Here SR 120 becomes Tioga Road (closed in winter) and enables you to enjoy the grandeur of one of the world's most scenic spectacles. If unaccustomed to mountain driving on a road carved out of a nearly vertical cliff, motorists may find the driving challenging but will be rewarded with magnificent views. In addition to its magnificent cliffs and waterfalls, Yosemite offers a full range of recreational activities.

Exiting via the eastern side of the park on SR 120 takes you over breathtaking Tioga Pass and down through Inyo National Forest. At the highway's junction with US 395 is Lee Vining, gateway to Mono Lake. The lake and its surrounding landscape are worth exploring, for they contain unusual and dramatic geological formations.

Before starting back to Los Angeles, you might enjoy an interesting side trip of approximately 30 miles to Bodie for a visit at Bodie State Historic Park, the preserved site of a rip-roaring gold-rush town. Take US 395 north to Bodie Road (SR 270) and turn east to the park. Note: During winter months US 395 may be closed due to bad weather conditions.

From Lee Vining, a trip south on US 395 leads along the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, an area abounding in beautiful and varied landscapes. Among possible side trips, Mammoth Lakes and Devils Postpile National Monument, (there is a shuttle from the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area parking lot) west on SR 203, are well worth the day you will want to spend there.

Thirty-eight miles south of Mammoth Lakes, US 395 reaches Bishop and from there goes through the Owens Valley to Lone Pine. The town is best known for its views of spectacular 14,505-foot Mount Whitney, the highest mountain in the contiguous United States. You can reach the 8,371-foot level of the mountain via Whitney Portal Road out of Lone Pine.

As you continue south on US 395, mountain scenery gives way to desert landscape. Sixty-three miles south of Lone Pine, pick up SR 14 where it intersects US 395 and turns southwest to Mojave. Red Rock Canyon State Park is just off SR 14 about 25 miles below that junction. Within the park ancient sedimentary rock has eroded into fantastically shaped cliffs and columns.

Continue on SR 14 and approximately 25 miles south of the park you will reach the high-desert town of Mojave. Rosamond is 5 miles farther south, and now you are in the Antelope Valley, with the San Gabriel Mountains on the southern horizon. In Lancaster is the 1,700-acre Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve, a state park offering wildflower lovers the chance to see millions of orange poppy blossoms blanket the hills from late March to early April (depending upon weather conditions).

From there SR 14 cuts through the Angeles National Forest on its way to I-5, the highway you will take south to return to Los Angeles.

Southern & Central Coast

Interstate 10 west from downtown Los Angeles leads to Santa Monica, where the coastal highway turns north and northwest and, as SR 1, continues to Malibu. On your right are steep, eroded bluffs with plateaus on which houses seemingly perch precariously; here and there buildings cluster at the foot of the bluffs. On your left, wide beaches, beach parking and oceanfront houses separate the highway from the ocean.

North of Malibu, SR 1 begins to climb through foothills covered with wild grasses. The coastline faces the Pacific on the south; to the north lie portions of the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area. At the line separating Los Angeles and Ventura counties is Leo Carrillo State Beach, and farther west the highway cuts through Point Mugu State Park.

Now swinging northwest, SR 1 goes into Oxnard. Turn north on Oxnard Boulevard to pick up US 101 heading for Ventura. In Ventura watch for the Seaward Avenue turn-off and follow signs to the Channel Islands National Park visitor center. Here you will receive a good introduction to the five islands that make up a most unusual park.

At Santa Barbara either continue on US 101 along the coast or take an inland detour. US 101 goes west from Santa Barbara through Goleta, then along the coast past El Capitán and Refugio state beaches to Gaviota Pass. The pass cuts through the inland portion of Gaviota State Park and the western section of the Santa Ynez Mountains before meeting SR 154 about 5 miles past Buellton.

An alternate route begins at the western edge of Santa Barbara where San Marcos Pass Road (SR 154) goes north from US 101. This highway leads through the Santa Ynez Mountains past Lake Cachuma and through Santa Ynez Valley to rejoin US 101. On a clear day some of the Channel Islands are visible from the mountain road. Lake Cachuma is a pleasant place for a shoreline picnic. Within the valley are wineries to tour. And a side trip to Solvang provides a make-believe trip to Denmark.

Just beyond Los Olivos SR 154 rejoins US 101. As it heads toward San Luis Obispo County, the highway goes through oak-dotted ranch land backed by gently rolling hills.

About 12.5 miles north of Santa Maria US 101 bisects the charming little town of Arroyo Grande, then heads out to the coast and through Pismo Beach. At Pismo State Beach it is possible to drive right onto the hard-packed sand.

Just out of Pismo Beach US 101 leads north to the university and mission city of San Luis Obispo, then meets SR 1. Turn north to Morro Bay, a small town with a big rock presiding over a bay where sea otters swim, seagulls soar and pelicans perch. The highway then makes its way along the coast to the pine groves and tempting shops of Cambria. Another 8 miles brings you to San Simeon, with Hearst Castle high on a hill beyond the town.

North of San Simeon SR 1 becomes a winding, clifftop road that affords spectacular coastal views. A word of caution: Slides caused by storms may close the road periodically during the winter, and fog can sometimes make driving hazardous, particularly in the summer. Big Sur, 64 miles north of San Simeon, is the site of artists' secluded residences as well as scenic Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park.

North of Big Sur the Pacific is in sight almost continuously, and one of the best views is at Point Lobos State Preserve, with its Monterey cypress, tide pools, marine mammals and ocean birds. The lovely town of Carmel-by-the-Sea is less than 5 miles north, and Monterey is approximately 2 miles farther. Monterey, prominent in California history and the setting for John Steinbeck's “Cannery Row,” is the terminus of this drive along California's coast.

For variety, the return trip to Los Angeles can be taken inland as far as San Luis Obispo. Southeast of Monterey, SR 68 leads to Salinas, self-proclaimed “Lettuce Capital of the World.” Turning south on US 101 leads into an agricultural valley where, seasonally, fields of lettuce, beans, grains, beets, berries and other crops cover the landscape. Orchards and pastureland complete the bucolic scene. This is John Steinbeck country, with farms, small towns and distant hills seemingly from the pages of “The Red Pony,” “Of Mice and Men” and “East of Eden.”

Just south of Soledad there is an interesting side trip east on SR 146 to Pinnacles National Park, with its volcanic spires and caves. The park is a popular spot for hiking and rock climbing.

Return to US 101 and continue south along the Salinas River, over creek beds and through farming communities. To the east lies the Diablo mountain range; to the west, the Santa Lucias.

Sixty-three miles south of Soledad, tiny San Miguel and its well-preserved mission are just off US 101. About 12 miles farther south is Paso Robles where you will find rest and refreshment and a chance to visit nearby wineries. Not far south of Paso Robles are the small, quiet, attractive towns of Templeton and Atascadero. On US 101 San Luis Obispo lies 16.5 miles south of Atascadero.

Insider Info

Mission Architecture

The architecture of the 21 Spanish missions built along El Camino Real 1769-1823 reflects both the simple tastes of their Franciscan founders and the limited resources of material and skilled labor available. The missions were constructed of stone and adobe, finished inside and out with whitewashed mud plaster and topped with pitched roofs of hewn timber covered with red tile. They were modestly adorned, compared to much of the Spanish architecture in the New World at that time.

The mission usually centered on a courtyard enclosed by the church and other buildings. These minor structures included quarters for friars, native workers, servants and soldiers; guest rooms; workshops; a convent; a kitchen; and a dining hall. Cloisters—arched covered passageways—fronted the courtyard and often the surrounding outer plaza.

The mission church followed one of three general designs. The first, typified by Mission San Miguel Arcangel in San Miguel, consisted of a simple nave, or central hall. A more elaborate design, such as San Buenaventura Mission in Ventura, included a single bell tower. Two belfry towers adorned churches of the third design, exemplified by the graceful Old Mission Santa Barbara.

After the secularization of the missions in 1833, earthquakes and neglect took their toll; many of the missions were severely damaged or destroyed. Restoration and reconstruction have revitalized these historic structures.

The Sea Otter

That pointy-nosed, long-whiskered creature floating on its back in central and northern California's waters isn't one of California's typical sunbathers—it's the sea otter.

The sea otter is a thickset, sturdy, fur-bearing marine mammal with small ears and short limbs. Its large hind feet are webbed and flipper-like; its front feet are comparatively small but agile enough to use rocks as tools to break open shellfish. The average adult male weighs up to 85 pounds and can be 4.5 feet long including its tail, making it the largest otter. Females can weigh as much as 60 pounds and be 4 feet long.

The sea otter differs from most marine animals in that it doesn't have a layer of blubber under its skin to keep it warm. Instead, air trapped in its fur serves as a waterproof blanket, insulating the animal and helping it stay afloat.

Weaving through the water at speeds up to .9 miles per hour on the surface and 5.6 miles per hour under water and diving as deep as 100 feet, sea otters swim with the ease of fish, but they're not fast enough to escape their natural enemies, orcas and sharks. Vast populations of sea otters once lived in kelp beds along the northern Pacific coast until man proved to be their worst enemy.

Hunters virtually exterminated the species for its lustrous, brown-black fur. In 1911 Russia, Japan, Great Britain and the United States signed a treaty protecting them.

The sea otter has reoccupied about one-fifth of its original range, re-establishing colonies in California, western Alaska and near the Commander and Kurile islands. Slowly, but in steadily increasing numbers, the bewhiskered sea otter is reclaiming its place in the Pacific ecosystem.

Points of Interest

Did You Know

Between 1860 and 1960 California's population doubled on average once every 20 years.

The international border between San Ysidro and Tijuana is the world's busiest, with more than 53 million crossings per year.

San Francisco's cable cars are the only moving National Historic Landmark in the United States.

Thanks to the gold rush of the 1840s and '50s, California's population exploded from about 26,000 to almost 380,000 in just 12 years.

The full name of Los Angeles is El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Reina de Los Angeles.

The city/county of San Francisco has a population density of nearly 16,600 people per square mile.

The 1906 San Francisco earthquake resulted in fires that destroyed far more buildings than the earthquake did itself.

People speaking nearly 100 languages comprise the ethnically diverse population of Los Angeles.

In 1913 the highest temperature ever recorded in the United States was measured at 134 F in Death Valley.