Cancún has one heck of a winning vacation formula. Begin with a string of glittering beachfront hotels where every amenity is provided. Add an assortment of local restaurants offering a variety of cuisines, many with the added bonus of lovely water views. Stir in things for couples to do, which range from sedate to slammin' and nightspots that extend the party into the wee hours. Provide numerous opportunities for shopping (humble souvenir stalls, ritzy malls and everything in between) and recreation (boating, fishing and snorkeling, to name just three). And it all takes place against a backdrop of sun, blue skies and turquoise water.
But Cancún isn't the only place to go in the destination; the stretch of Caribbean coast all the way south to the Belize border is speckled with beaches every bit as beautiful. A number of adventurous things to do lean toward the thrilling, like riding a zipline above a jungle canopy or exploring the otherworldly depths of a freshwater sinkhole. And in an era where going green has become a burgeoning movement, protection of the natural environment is a key component of Mexican Caribbean tourism, along with the preservation and celebration of native Yucatecan culture.
It's All in the Name of The Caribbean Coast
Two names define the Caribbean coast. The area known and promoted as the Riviera Maya covers the coastal strip from the town of Puerto Morelos south to the town of Tulum. The inland town of Felipe Carrillo Puerto, about 40 kilometers (25 miles) south of Tulum, also is considered part of the Riviera Maya. From a traveler's perspective, however, what constitutes the Riviera Maya is a somewhat fluid definition, as other destinations—for example, the major archeological ruins at Cobá—are a fairly short distance from the coast and thus easily reached.Things to See in the Caribbean Coast
Between Tulum and the tiny lobster fishing village of Punta Allen is a 30-mile stretch of largely unspoiled coastline lying within the Si'an Kaan Biosphere Reserve, a protected area covering more than a million acres that is a haven for diverse plant and animal species. While long known for sports fishing, birding and adventurous things to do, this stretch also is known for small-scale, ecologically oriented tourism. It's the wilder side of the Caribbean coast—a swath of stunning empty beaches, mangrove forests and dense jungle scrub.
Farther south it gets wilder still. The length of coastline from Punta Herrero—another miniscule fishing village perched on a little sand spit at the head of Espíritu Santo Bay—south to the remote outpost of Xcalak, near the Mexico-Belize border, is referred to as the Costa Maya. The Costa Maya focuses on small-scale adventure travel, but the pier at the small port of Majahual has brought cruise vacations to the forefront.
Geographically speaking, this region embraces three islands as well: Cozumel, Isla Holbox and Isla Mujeres. All are less than 15 miles from the mainland, and the warm, clear Caribbean waters teem with myriad species of tropical and game fish.
Cancún itself isn't officially part of the Riviera Maya, but the great majority of Mexican Caribbean visitors arrive via Cancún International Airport from international flights. For many travelers it offers last-minute travel and makes a convenient base from which to embark on day trips down the coast via such transportation options as rental cars and jeeps, public buses or private cabs. But Cancún shares a geographical proximity and the physical attributes that make it a kindred spirit of the Riviera Maya, the Costa Maya and the offshore islands.
Thrill Seeking in the Caribbean Coast
Among this coastal destination's most notable natural features and things to see are the sinkholes called cenotes (say-NO-tays). The underlying limestone's porous quality leads to the formation of caverns and caves where fresh water collects. The water in cenotes is known for both its clarity and for colors ranging from deep blue to turquoise to emerald green. Furthermore, portions of limestone that weaken and collapse over time can form holes in a cavern ceiling, allowing shafts of light to penetrate otherwise dark surroundings and illuminate the numerous stalactite and stalagmite formations. These features lend a surreal aspect to the appearance of many underground cenotes.Cenotes at land level, in contrast, look like any lake or pond. These sinkholes are often created when the ceiling of an underlying cave collapses. Specialized plants take root in the pile of rubble left behind by a collapse, their roots eventually splitting the rock to tap the cave water below. Then there are partially enclosed cenotes, which have some sections that are exposed to full sunlight and others where little natural light penetrates.
Land-level cenotes are common in the interior peninsula and function as swimming holes and things to see, while those along the coast frequently serve as entry points to extensive subterranean cave systems. Adventure travel, such as underwater cave exploration along the Quintana Roo coast, dates only to the early 1980s, but since then a number of cave systems have been discovered. Cave diving is a sport best left to experts, but amateurs can enjoy snorkeling in the clear, cool waters of a cenote while exploring bizarrely beautiful rock formations. Cenote snorkeling and diving has quickly become one of this region's most adventurous things to do.
Things for Couples to Do
Ziplining is popular as well. A steel cable mounted on an incline, a zipline propels users wearing a harness that is attached to a freely moving pulley; it provides a heart-thumping thrill of a ride as well as an elevated bird's-eye view of the scenery en route. Zipline outfitters along the Quintana Roo coast take advantage of scenic environments that range from jungle canopies to the open Caribbean.
Reputable operators provide all necessary safety equipment and offer a thorough demonstration, including ziplining do's and don'ts, before anyone leaves the ground. You, on the other hand, should be in moderate to good physical condition, have some familiarity with adventure sport abilities and not be afraid of heights. Zipline excursions often include other fun things to do like biking along unpaved jungle trails and swimming in a cenote.
Cancún-based Selvática organizes various zipline, off-road and ATV travel packages, including round-trip transportation from Cancún and Riviera Maya hotels. For additional details check the website or phone (855) 203-9863 (from the United States) or (855) 882-6470 (from Canada).
You can still do the tried-and-true tourist thing here—a sunset lagoon cruise, perhaps, or a snorkeling trip. But many travel tours along the Caribbean coast cater specifically to the adventure travel crowd. Playa del Carmen-based Alltournative specializes in vacation packages, which may include rappelling into a cenote or piloting a sea kayak to an offshore coral reef. Their guided half-day and all-day trips also introduce you to local culture; for example, participating in an authentic Mayan blessing ceremony. For more information check the website or phone (877) 437-4990 (from the United States) or (877) 432-1569 (from Canada).
Touring the Riviera Maya
Organized bus travel tours departing from Cancún are plentiful, and this is certainly a convenient and hassle-free way to experience such established Caribbean coast tourist destinations as Xcaret, Xel-Ha and the Tulum Ruins. But driving yourself offers greater flexibility and the opportunity to check out secluded spots a travel agency may not include. Mex. 307, the main highway, hugs the coast from Cancún as far south as Tulum before turning inland and continuing all the way to the city of Chetumal, near the border with Belize.Where to Go
All-inclusive beachfront resorts line the Riviera Maya. These accommodations add up to far more than simply a night's lodging—in addition to food places, they offer everything from organized things to do with kids, to Spanish lessons to yoga classes on the beach. Ocean trampolines, catamaran excursions, theme parties under a starry night sky and many adventurous things to do are part and parcel of the all-inclusive experience, making them very popular with families and group travel enthusiasts.
If you've never driven Mex. 307, this four-lane divided highway is in good condition from Cancún south to Playa del Carmen. Speed bumps are present when approaching traffic lights at some intersections (road signs denote their presence). Speed limits vary from 70 kilometers per hour (about 45 mph) to 100 kilometers per hour (about 65 mph), but along most stretches the limit is 80 kilometers per hour (about 50 mph). It drops to 40 kilometers per hour (about 25 mph) when approaching Puerto Morelos, Playa del Carmen and Tulum.
International green road signs with picture symbols denote towns, points of interest, gas stations, resort hotels, etc. Practically every point of interest is a kilometer or two east or west of Mex. 307 via paved, dirt or rutted roads; they're designated by crude signs as well as prominent billboards. Mileage signs are posted in kilometers, and kilometer markers are installed along the right-hand side of the highway. Drive defensively—much of the route runs straight as a ruler, and many motorists tend to speed—and avoid driving after dark since lighting along most stretches is inadequate.
From Cancún it takes about 90 minutes (without stops) to reach the southern end of the Riviera Maya at Tulum. From Ciudad Cancún, take Avenida Tulum (which becomes Mex. 307) south. From the Hotel Zone, take Boulevard Kukulcán south toward the airport. After rounding Nizuc Point (Punta Nizuc), the southern tip of the island, Kukulcán curves west toward Mex. 307. Continue to the highway interchange and follow the signs for Playa del Carmen and Tulum.
The terrain is flat, and the thick jungle that once blanketed this coastal region is largely gone. The highway offers no glimpses of the Caribbean or Caribbean travel highlights; the coastline is a mile or two to the east. Occasional roadside establishments along Mex. 307 offer hammocks, blankets and crafts for sale, and signs at turnoffs announce the latest upscale resort development that has either just opened or is under construction.
The main turn-off for Puerto Morelos (an intersection with a traffic signal) is about 36 kilometers (22 miles) south of Cancún's Hotel Zone. This laid-back village has beaches backed by coconut palms, a municipal dock and the turquoise hues of the Caribbean. Adventure travel options, including snorkeling and diving, are excellent due to the coral reef that is less than 2,000 feet offshore. For a perfectly relaxed afternoon, stroll along the sandy beach in the center of town and then grab a bite to eat at one of the casual local restaurants on the main square (zócalo).
The turn-off for Punta Beté, about 58 kilometers (36 miles) south of Cancún, is signed “Punta Beté/Xcalacoco.” The bumpy dirt road leads to a rocky beach and inexpensive cabana-type hotels.
Playing in Playa
Either the first or second turn-offs (Avenida Constituyentes and Avenida Juárez, respectively) will take you to downtown Playa del Carmen, about 68 kilometers (42 miles) south of Cancún. Avenida Juárez goes straight to the main plaza. If you miss the inside left-turn lanes (easy to do) you can proceed south to the turnaround and then double back. An elevated overpass built directly over Mex. 307, some 6 kilometers (4 miles) in length, allows drivers en route to points south to bypass the destination completely; there are entrance and exit ramps at key cross streets.The Riviera Maya's largest city and biggest travel destination is awash in glitzy, expensive resort properties and also has a hopping nightlife scene. But despite explosive growth Playa remains a small town at heart. The vibe along pedestrian-only 5th Avenue (Quinta Avenida), just a block off the beach, is leisurely. You can lunch alfresco at a local restaurant, browse block after block of shops or just relax on a bench at small, palm-shaded Parque Fundadores, the main plaza, and gaze out at the Caribbean.
South of Playa del Carmen Mex. 307 continues as a four-lane divided highway before eventually alternating between two- and three-lane stretches (with the middle lane used as a passing lane by both southbound and northbound vehicles). Be careful when passing, as drivers in the oncoming lane may cross over the center line unexpectedly. Also use caution when making left turns; turn lanes are marked by reflectors on the road.
Adventure Travel
The turn-off for Xcaret is about 72 kilometers (45 miles) south of Cancún. This big aquatic theme park puts emphasis on the preservation of Mayan heritage and the Yucatán Peninsula's natural resources. One of the things to see is an underground river that flows through a series of caves to the beach; swimmers float along with the current.
Ten kilometers (6 miles) beyond Xcaret, just north of Puerto Aventuras, is the signed turn-off for Paamul (paul-MOOL), a sheltered cove with a rocky beach that is a popular thing for couples to do. You can swim here when seas are calm, and snorkeling is good in the vicinity of an offshore coral reef. The beach is sandier and less rocky at the south end.
The turn-off for Puerto Aventuras is about 85 kilometers (53 miles) south of Cancún. This long-established resort community also is a sport fishing and adventure travel center, which offers large marina surrounded by shops and casual open-air food places. Much of the beachfront is occupied by resort properties and hotels; the main beach area is along Fatima Bay between the Chac Hal condominium development and the Grand Peninsula residential complex.
A few kilometers south of Puerto Aventuras are several turn-offs for Xpu-Ha (take the one signed “La Playa” for public access to the beach). The stretch of beach is lovely and clean (it's raked to remove seaweed), and the water is picture-postcard turquoise. Unlike some Riviera Maya beaches, the bottom is generally sandy and free of rocks, which means swimmers don't need to don footwear. The Palace chain of all-inclusive resorts has properties here, although the beach—like all beaches in Mexico—is open to the public; beach chairs, palapas and other amenities are reserved for hotel guests. Xpu-Ha is a locals' hangout where casual beachside restaurants offer up fish tacos and ice-cold beer.
South of Xpu-Ha and about 105 kilometers (65 miles) south of Cancún is the turn-off for Akumal. On the west side of the highway is the tiny pueblo (community) of Akumal, which consists of one main thoroughfare, some side streets and a couple of small businesses. Much larger, tourist-oriented Akumal, which features fun things to do, is east of the highway.
A few kilometers south of Akumal is the signed turn-off for Xcacel, a lovely white-sand beach on a crescent-shaped bay with calm, clear water. The area is an important nesting site for Atlantic green and loggerhead turtles, both on the endangered species list, and ongoing efforts are being made to ensure their preservation. At the south end of the beach is a path that leads through a stand of mangroves to a small freshwater cenote. Xcacel is a protected nature preserve, and boating, sport fishing and overnight camping are prohibited.
Things to Do with Kids
About 122 kilometers (76 miles) south of Cancún is the well-marked turn-off to Xel-Ha (shell-HAH), an ecologically oriented park centered around a large lagoon. It's one of the best things to do with kids, and the environment caters to novice snorkelers. Group travel or daylong vacation packages that include transportation are popular and easily arranged; check with hotels or your local AAA Travel Agency.
An Outpost by the Sea
One look at the ruins of Tulum, about 131 kilometers (81 miles) south of Cancún (the turn-off is prominently signed), and it's understandable why the Maya chose this destination: This is the only section of the low-lying Caribbean coast where limestone deposits built up to form coastal cliffs. Tulum's clifftop setting overlooking turquoise water is dramatic. Explore the various things to see—notably the ruins—then hike to the beach below and enjoy a swim.Many Tulum residents work at nearby resort properties and hotels. Mex. 307 is the main drag, lined with souvenir shops, open-air food places, fruit markets and businesses from muffler repair shops to internet cafés. Once out of town, Mex. 307 turns southwest into the scrubby flatlands of interior Quintana Roo on the way to Felipe Carrillo Puerto and Bacalar.
Things to Do Today
If you want to explore Tulum's beaches and hotels (and you should, since it's a pretty drive), take the paved road east that branches off Mex. 307 at the northern end of town (signed “Playas/Punta Allen”). After about 5 kilometers (3 miles) it reaches a fork; turn right (south) for the hotel zone.
The narrow, winding, palm-shaded drive extends south for several miles, lined with cabanas, thatched palapa huts and small hotels. One of the first properties is La Posada del Sol, a tropical “eco-boutique” that spreads along both sides of the beach road. In the vicinity are several local restaurants and a couple of mini-markets. There's also an on-site shop that sells jewelry and handicrafts.
Brake for the occasional tope (speed bump). The lodgings are all steps away from the water, although the beach is mostly hidden from view. Nearby restaurants as well as the occasional shopping boutique and nightspot are also along the beach road.
Once past the Tulum hotel zone the coast road continues south down the length of the Boca Paila Peninsula. This narrow isthmus of land is within the 1.3 million-acre Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve and is the only portion of the reserve open to visitors. The vast tract of coastal wilderness is a haven for wildlife, including some endangered species. If you want to access the reserve and/or travel down to Punta Allen, you must stop and pay the registration fee of around $4 (U.S.) per person at the guardhouse designating the official point of entry.
The End of the Line in the Caribbean Coast
At the guardhouse, set your car's trip meter to zero. Ten kilometers (6.2 miles) down the road is a small visitor center with a handful of displays focusing on Sian Ka'an's flora, fauna and history. Information panels are in Spanish and English. A short trail leads inland to a wooden dock fronting an expansive lagoon. Here you can arrange things to do; think kayak rentals (about $20 U.S. per hour) and 90-minute boat tours of the lagoon (about $40 U.S. per person). Reservations are not necessary.Beyond the visitor center the setting is dense scrub jungle, with empty, palm-studded beaches and mangrove-lined estuaries along the Caribbean coast and a network of lagoons and waterways between the peninsula and the mainland. There are points where your peripheral vision will encompass sea, land and lagoon. Rustic eco lodges cater to dedicated birders (species common to this region include frigate birds, brown pelicans, woodpeckers, parrots and the Yucatán jay) and adventure travel enthusiasts who don't mind roughing it for the superb fishing.
Relaxing Things to Do
Some 17 kilometers (10.6 miles) past the guardhouse there is easy beach access and good swimming at a gorgeous semi-sheltered cove. Park anywhere along the side of the road. Xamach Dos (24 kilometers south of the guardhouse) is a sleepy beachfront hotel with a few rental cabanas and a small palapa restaurant. There are picnic tables and beach chairs at the water's edge. If you've always fantasized about having a Caribbean beach all to yourself, continue toward Punta Allen and pull off at any of the small, unmarked turn-outs along the beach side of the road. Cancún this is not.
Travel Off the Beaten Path
This truly off-the-beaten-path destination culminates at the hamlet of Punta Allen—a couple of local restaurants, a handful of convenience stores and a few fishing and eco travel tour guide services—set smack dab in an idyllic setting of coconut palms, thatched palapas and stunning Caribbean views. The road comes to an end at a lighthouse with a mirador (viewing platform) that looks out over the vast saltwater flats of Ascension Bay (Bahía de la Ascensión). This is one of the best fly-fishing spots in the world for anglers seeking tarpon, bonefish and the elusive permit, a game fish with a deeply forked tail related to the pompano.
Trekkers take note: It is approximately 45 kilometers (28 miles) from the Sian Ka'an guardhouse to Punta Allen. Much of the route—which is gradually being paved and improved—is a narrow one-lane trail of packed dirt and sand over limestone. It winds through dense scrub jungle, passing deserted beaches, mangrove flats and even an occasional Mayan ruin. Iguanas scurry across the road. Ruts and potholes are more evident after crossing the Boca Paila bridge, about 24 kilometers (15 miles) south of the guardhouse.
You can travel in a car, but a jeep or four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended. Be sure you have a full tank of gas and bring drinking water, food and insect repellent. Plan on at least 2 hours (not including stops) to reach Punta Allen from Tulum, although once you're familiar with the road it's safe to shave a good 20 minutes off your estimated return drive time. If you're not spending the night in Punta Allen allow enough time to get back to Mex. 307 before dusk.
With adventurous things to do, this trip isn't for the faint of heart, but that's the beauty of Caribbean travel. You can hole up in sheltered luxury and pamper yourself, or leave your comfort zone behind for the shot of adrenaline that real adventure provides.