Kathmandu Durbar Square (Basantapur)

Durbar means “Palace” in Nepal, and the vibrant square is most known for its royal lineage, from hand-carved temples to the 16th-century Malla palace. Multiple royal dynasties in Nepal have all left their mark. Standout sights include Kalbhairav—a fierce, dagger-wielding Shiva statue—and Taleju Temple, a spectacular, multitiered pagoda. There are also multiple courtyards to explore and the Kumari Ghar, home of Kathmandu’s pint-sized living goddess.

It is recommended to allot as much time as you can to strolling around and soaking up the ambiance. Guided tours are also indispensable to getting much-needed context on the historic buildings, including the city’s ongoing renovations. Visit during the day on an excursion that also explores Bhaktapur, Pashupatinath Temple, and Boudhanath Temple, or enjoy an evening tour by rickshaw.

• Kathmandu Durbar Square, or palace square, is the UNESCO-listed heart of Kathmandu’s Old City.

• Keep an eye out for the Kumari (living goddess); she appears periodically from her 18th-century palace home.

• Shoulders covered: Remember to dress modestly when entering religious sites.

• Ask permission before photographing locals, especially the holy men known as sadhus.

• Admission tickets are required for entering the square, which has multiple entrance points.

Kathmandu Durbar Square is a short, scenic stroll from Thamel, where most of Kathmandu’s hotels and guesthouses are located. Guided tours often arrange private hotel pickup and street taxis can also be hired, although you may need to bargain.

Kathmandu Durbar Square is a year-round destination, although be prepared for warm summers and chilly winters. One of the city’s largest festivals—Indra Jatra—kicks off with a lively procession of chariots through the square. Masked performers, known as Lakheys, stage traditional dances in honor of Nepal’s rain god. The resident child goddess, or Kumari, also makes an appearance—one of the rare times she leaves the palace.

Many quake-damaged historical buildings in Kathmandu—like Taleju Temple—have already been reconstructed, but others remain in critical condition. Learn about the painstaking reconstruction process and the many talented artisans that have joined rebuilding efforts. The country has made great progress since the 2015 earthquakes and tourists can show their support for the multiyear plan by visiting the Kathmandu Durbar Square.

Dating back to the 3rd century, this stunning architectural complex contains 50 temples and a variety of pagodas and palaces. Several of the most famous buildings are Taleju Bhawani Temple, dedicated to the goddess Taleju, the Maju Mega temple built in honor of Lord Shiva, and the Kumari Ghar, where Kathmandu’s living goddess lives.

Taleju Bhawani Temple opens just once a year during Dashain in October. The mid-fall season is also a great time to come weather-wise, as days turn mild and sunny once the monsoon rains clear, and the surrounding mountains peak out from the horizon. Winter is cold but generally clear, so that’s another option.

Yes. Located right within Kathmandu Durbar Square, Hanuman Dhoka Palace (named for the neon-orange statue of Hanuman, the Hindu monkey god, standing outside the gate) is home to the Tribhuvan Museum. You can learn about King Tribhuvan, who ruled Nepal in the first half of the 20th century, and his son, King Mahendra.

Yes. While Nepalis do not require admission tickets to access Kathmandu Durbar Square, there is an entry fee for foreigners, payable on-site and valid for a day. Museums within the square generally have separate admission tickets. Luckily for families with children, kids aged 10 or under can enter for free.

Yes. Shoes must always be removed before entering a Hindu temple or shrine. Visitors should also refrain from having loud conversations at a religious site. In terms of dress codes, refrain from wearing shorts or tank tops and show respect by dressing modestly. Also, never photograph anyone without permission.

The busy streets and alleys in Kathmandu’s Old City are a joy to explore on foot. Get lost, sample traditional Nepali and Newari food, and shop for handicrafts and other souvenirs. Anyone planning on staying in Kathmandu for a few days or more can participate in an artisan workshop like thangka painting.