Church of Santo Tomé (Iglesia de Santo Tomé)

El Greco’s luminous painting, lovingly restored in the 1970s, depicts the man who donated to the rebuilding of this church in the 14th century, Don Gonzalo Ruiz de Toledo. His funeral, according to legend, drew St. Stephen and St. Augustine to descend from heaven, and the picture shows the count’s released soul flying toward God as saints and dignitaries lower his mortal form into the ground. Both El Greco and his son are believed to appear in the painting.

There’s a fee to visit the Church of Santo Tomé, and you can buy tickets online or at the church itself—or invest in the Toledo wristband, which covers this and six other monuments. The church is a common stop on Toledo walking tours, many of which include transportation from Madrid by bullet train, minivan, or private car: A guide saves time when it comes to navigating the rambling old city.

• The Church of Santo Tomé is a must for art lovers and history buffs alike.

• This is a working church, so dress appropriately: Cover shoulders and midriff, and leave the short-shorts at home.

• There are sometimes lines to see the painting, so allow at least 30 minutes for your visit.

• No photographs are allowed in the Church of Santo Tomé.

• The church has not been adapted for travelers who use wheelchairs.

The Church of Santo Tomé sits in the west of Toledo’s old town, less than a 10-minute walk from the cathedral and close to El Tránsito Synagogue and the El Greco Museum. To reach the old town from the station—served by fast trains from Madrid that take around 30 minutes—catch bus L61, L62, L5, or L12 to Zocodover Square, or walk. Toledo’s old town is almost entirely car-free.

The Church of Santo Tomé is open daily from morning to evening, with the last tickets issued 15 minutes before closing. It is closed on December 25 and January 1, and closes early on December 24 and December 31.

Although he was born in Greece, which explains his moniker (meaning “The Greek”), El Greco (1541–1614) spent much of his life in Toledo. Toledo Cathedral houses his spectacular The Disrobing of Christ, while the Museo Convento de Santo Domingo el Antiguo, his burial place, is home to one of his early Toledo works, The Assumption of the Virgin. The founder of the Museo del Greco, near the Church of Santo Tomé, believed the artist once lived in this house. He didn’t, but it’s well worth a visit to see works by the master, his son, and the painters who studied under him.