Among the first visitors were surfers, who were drawn by the big waves and dirt-cheap lodgings. Today they're still here, but Puerto Escondido is no longer a hideaway and not quite as cheap. Instead, it's an established destination, frequented by an international group of travelers preferring a more laid-back alternative to the shiny expense of Bahías de Huatulco and other carefully planned seaside resorts.
Practicalities
The international airport is about 3 kilometers (2 miles) west of town off Mex. 200, near the newer hotel and resort development around Playa Bacocho. It receives flights from Mexico City via Aeromar (usually on twin-turboprop airliners) and VivaAerobus. Taxis and less expensive colectivos (minibuses) operated by Transportes Terrestres shuttle airport passengers to and from hotels.Puerto Escondido is about 113 kilometers (70 miles) west of Huatulco via Mex. 200, often referred to as the Carretera Costera (Coastal Highway). Driving from Acapulco or Huatulco is not recommended for safety reasons; the winding road is also potholed, particularly during the July-through-September rainy season. If you do drive, avoid doing so after dark.
Mex. 200 divides the town roughly in half. The older, upper section, above the highway, is where most residents live and conduct their daily business. Below the highway is the newer, tourist-geared waterfront. Hotels, restaurants and shops spread for about a mile along the main thoroughfare, Avenida Peréz Gasga. At noon each day, chains are raised at the eastern and western ends of the beachfront strip, closing the street to vehicular traffic. At the western end of this pedestrian zone, Gasga begins winding uphill and crosses Mex. 200, where its name changes to Avenida Oaxaca (Mex. 131). The junction, marked by a traffic signal, is known as El Crucero.
The local bus stations are all within a block or so of the El Crucero intersection. Estrella Blanca provides first-class service along Mex. 200 between Acapulco and Bahías de Huatulco (be sure to specify the La Crucecita terminal as your destination if you're taking a bus to Huatulco from Puerto Escondido). The station is on Avenida Oaxaca, just north of the El Crucero junction.
Casa de cambio (currency exchange) houses are on each side of Peréz Gasga near the Rincón Pacífico Hotel.
Things To Do
The Beaches
A lighthouse atop Punta Escondida at the western end of the bayfront affords a panoramic view of town. Running east from the rocky cove beneath the lighthouse is Playa Principal, the in-town beach. Here the stretch of sand is narrow, the water calm and the beach backed by rustling palms. It can be crowded: Mexican families flock here on Sundays and holidays to wade and paddle in the shallows, and local fishermen cast their nets at the sheltered west side of the bay or launch small, colorfully painted boats. Do not walk along the beaches at night because of the possibility of robberies or muggings.To the east of Playa Principal is Playa Marineros, which begins at the jutting rocks below the Hotel Santa Fe. Here the shoreline begins curving toward the south and increasingly faces the open ocean. The surf gets rougher, and swimmers should exercise caution.
Farther to the southeast is Playa Zicatela, considered to be one of the world's best surfing beaches. The wide expanse of golden-colored sand stretches for miles, and the thundering Pacific breakers crashing onto it are impressive indeed. The biggest waves occur between August and November. Spectators line the beach to watch daredevil surfers finesse the “pipeline,” a long tubular swell of water. Needless to say, swim here at your own risk.
West of town are the coves of Puerto Angelito and Carrizalillo. These sheltered spots are ideal for snorkeling and scuba diving; bring your own gear, as facilities are limited at best. They can be reached either by taxi, a boat launched from Playa Principal or a circuitous concrete footpath (wear a hat and bring water if you decide to walk). Farther west is Playa Bacocho, another open strip of sand; the waves and undertow make it better for sunning and hiking than swimming. Most of the more expensive hotels cluster around this beach.
What To Do
The main reason to visit Puerto Escondido is to relax at the beach; shopping and entertainment are not high on the list of diversions. The local mercado (municipal market) is in the upper section of town on Avenida 10 Norte, several blocks west of Avenida Oaxaca. It sells mostly produce, but one group of stalls offers a selection of regional handicrafts. Along the tourist strip, there are a few clothing shops and the usual hodgepodge of T-shirts, postcards and souvenirs.Several restaurants line beachside Avenida Peréz Gasga, with fish and seafood—from sushi to octopus—the main menu items. Most places provide a view of the beach and the activity along it. The restaurant in the Hotel Santa Fe, on Avenida del Morro at the eastern end of the bay (about half a mile southeast of the town center), has good food and a breezy atmosphere, with tables overlooking the Playa Zicatela surf.
The best places to watch the sun sink into the Pacific are along Playa Zicatela, where there is an unobscured view of the western horizon. The cliff-top lawn on the grounds of the Posada Real Hotel, west of town overlooking Playa Bacocho, is an ideal perch for sunset watching. A taxi can get you there. There are a couple of noisy bars and dance clubs in the tourist zone along Avenida Peréz Gasga and in the hotels around Playa Bacocho.
The surrounding coastal region is a natural paradise, and because most locations are inaccessible except by boat, eco-tourism is actively promoted. Hidden Voyages Ecotours offers seasonal (mid-Dec. to late March) guided bird-watching and nature trips to some of the lagoons that indent the Oaxacan coast. Early morning motorboat trips visit Manialtepec Lagoon, about 15 kilometers (9 miles) west of Puerto Escondido, which is encircled by mangroves and home to a rich variety of wetland bird species and tropical vegetation. The company also offers kayak tours of the lagoon.
Round-trip transportation is provided from Puerto Escondido hotels. Food is not included; the restaurant at the departure dock sells beverages to go. Bring a hat and sunblock. Binoculars are provided. The motorboat trip departs Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 7 a.m.; the kayak trip departs on Thursdays at 6:30 a.m. The motorboat tour fee is 900 pesos per person; the kayak tour fee is 1,000 pesos per person.
Reservations are required. From mid-December through March phone (954) 582-2962 in Puerto Escondido (English is spoken). Reservations can also be made through the Dimar Travel Agency, Av. Peréz Gasga #905 on the beachfront. Office hours vary; phone (954) 582-2305. This agency also can arrange three- or four-person fishing trips to the waters off Puerto Escondido for mackerel, sea bass, snook or tuna. Boats depart from Playa Principal.