Zapotec, Mixtec and Aztec merchants established a trade route through this region during pre-Hispanic times, and the coastal settlement of Santa Cruz Huatulco became a thriving port and shipyard. By the late 16th century, however, Acapulco had absorbed the galleon trade, and pirate attacks brought about a further decline. Until recently, Huatulco and other small villages along this stretch of coast remained forgotten outposts.
Jagged boulders and small islands characterize this section of Mexico's Pacific coastline, much of which is backed by dense tropical forest. The resort area comprises nine bays in all. Thanks to their natural layout, large-scale development will be broken into a series of resort areas targeting budget, mid-range and upper-end travelers. Ecotourism is promoted heavily, and there are increasing opportunities for jungle hikes, river rafting, rappelling and other vigorous activities.
Practicalities
Huatulco International Airport is off Mex. 200, about 19 kilometers (12 miles) northwest of the Tangolunda resort area. United offers direct flights from the United States. Other airlines providing service to the airport include Aeroméxico, American Airlines and Volaris. The two terminals—one for international flights, one for domestic flights—are large, palapa-style hardwood structures with high ceilings and thatched roofs. Arriving visitors will in all likelihood encounter roaming time share representatives; be prepared to avoid their high-pressure sales pitches.Transportes Terrestres, phone (958) 581-9014, operates shared minivan (colectivo) service that shuttles passengers from the airport to the resort hotels; expect to pay about $21 (U.S.) per person. A private taxi (often a Chevrolet Suburban) is much more expensive—about $50 and up, depending on the amount of luggage you have—and drivers can be aggressive about soliciting fares.
Taxi service also links the three separate areas of Tangolunda, Santa Cruz and La Crucecita. Cabs wait in front of the big hotels and also congregate around the plazas in Santa Cruz and La Crucecita. Fares average about $6 (U.S.) from La Crucecita to Tangolunda and $3 from Santa Cruz to Tangolunda or Santa Cruz to La Crucecita. Rates are posted at the travel booth on the main plaza in La Crucecita.
Since Huatulco is spread out and also has a good road network, a rental car can come in handy for exploring as well as for trips to nearby destinations. AAA members can reserve a rental car through their local club; it is recommended that you make all necessary arrangements prior to your departure. It also helps to know the peso equivalent of the dollar rate you are charged, since the charge in Mexico will be in pesos.
The climate is tropical, with an average annual temperature of 82 degrees. Temperatures in May, the hottest month, can reach 100. January through May is practically rainless; heavy rains fall July through September. As in Mexico's other Pacific coast resorts, the “winter” months, December through March, are the sunniest, driest and least oppressive. Note: Mosquitoes can be fierce all along the coast. Pack an effective insect repellent or pick up Autan Classic, a widely available Mexican brand.
Things To Do
Beaches and Recreation
From east to west, the nine bays of Huatulco are Conejos, Tangolunda, Chahué, Santa Cruz, El Organo, El Maguey, Cacaluta, Chachacual and San Agustín. Conejos, Tangolunda, Chahue, Santa Cruz, El Maguey and El Organo are accessible by car; others can be reached only by boat. Bahía Conejos has minimal tourist facilities but offers excellent snorkeling, diving and fishing at its four beaches.Luxury hotel development in Huatulco is focused along Bahía Tangolunda, which means “place where the gods live” in the Zapotec dialect. High-rise buildings are absent—no structure here is more than six stories tall. As a result, the Mediterranean-, Moorish- and Mexican-style resorts that hug the bay offer unobstructed views from many different vantage points. Careful attention has been given to paving and landscaping, with sculptured rocks separating the roads running to and from the resort properties.
Several beaches line this bay, including Playa La Hierbabuena, Playa del Amor (Love Beach), Punta Paraiso and Playa La Entrega, where a coral reef lies just a few feet offshore. Most of the resorts are all-inclusive, with shuttle service to the beach and such diversions as themed evening shows and Mexican Fiesta nights.
Bahía Chahué (Chah-WAY) is the largest of the nine, with three separate stretches of sandy beach and a marina catering to private yachts. Many hotel employees live in La Crucecita, a planned town and residential area a mile or so inland off Mex. 200. Its main square, while not particularly authentic, is attractive, graced with a central bandstand, brick walkways, green lawns, shade trees and white stone benches.
Surrounding this plaza are modest hotels, restaurants and shops specializing in Oaxacan handicrafts. The area is lively in the evening, when locals and tourists mingle at the restaurants and in the square.
Bahía Santa Cruz is the site of the original fishing settlement of Huatulco. Day cruises to the other eight bays depart from the marina here; arrangements can be made at your hotel or through local travel agents.
The village of Santa Cruz has a shady main square surrounded by shops, restaurants, bars and a few Mexican-style, middle-class hotels. Playa Santa Cruz, the main beach, is a short distance from the marina. It has clear, calm water and refreshment facilities, making it a pleasant spot to snorkel or simply lay around after lunch. Nearby Playa Yerbabuena and Playa La Entrega are accessible by boat, either an outboard motor-propelled panga (skiff) or a deluxe cruise vessel.
Bahía El Organo has gentle surf, nearby parking facilities and a few open-air palapa restaurants. The four westernmost bays—El Maguey, Cacaluta, Chachacual and San Agustín—were designated a national park in 1998, protecting them from commercial development, although they can still be visited. Cacaluta and Chachacual have long, deserted stretches of beach; San Agustín is excellent for diving. All of the beaches boast lovely golden sand and pristine water, the result of a sewage system that permits nothing to be dumped into the ocean.
In the mountains above Huatulco are coffee plantations begun by German immigrants. The tropical highlands in the vicinity offer ideal conditions for growing coffee, an evergreen shrub native to East Africa.
The best way to enjoy the cove-pocked coastline is to take a cruise. Boat tours visit El Maguey and Chachacual bays, with time for swimming or snorkeling and lunch on the beach. Guided kayaking trips explore the Copalita River, which winds into the nearby mountains.
Isla La Blanquita, off Bahía Santa Cruz, looks white from a distance, crowded as it is with seagulls, ducks, pelicans and albatrosses. Bahía El Organo's U-shaped Playa Violín has very fine sand and gentle waves not unlike a natural swimming pool. El Bufadero, a blowhole in a shoreline cliff, occasionally spouts jets of water; the aptly named Stone Face is a rock formation just above the water.
Surf conditions can fluctuate greatly at Tangolunda Bay; heed the colored flags posted along the beach that advertise swimming conditions. Tangolunda and Santa Cruz bays have the most extensive equipment rental facilities. Among the prettiest beaches are Bahía Chahué's Playa Esperanza and Playa Tejón, and Bahía Chachacual's Playa la India. Swimming is best at Conejos, Tangolunda, Santa Cruz, El Organo and El Maguey bays.
The easiest way to arrange most activities is through a travel agency. Bahías Plus has offices in the major hotels and offers various tours, including snorkeling, diving and sport-fishing trips, sunset cruises, bird-watching excursions, ATV jungle adventures, wildlife observation eco-tours, and day trips to Puerto Angel and Zipolite Beach. The all-purpose “Huatulco Discovery” sightseeing tour includes a swim at El Maguey Bay, a stop in downtown La Crucecita and time out for shopping.
If necessary, bring comfortable shoes, sunblock, insect repellent and/or a bathing suit or change of clothes. Expect to get dusty riding in an ATV. Some excursions are advised only for those in good physical condition. Bahía Plus agency's main office is at Av. Carrizal #704 in La Crucecita; phone (958) 587-0216.
Dining and Nightlife
Dining choices in Huatulco are not necessarily limited to the expensive hotel restaurants. Restaurant Ve El Mar, on the water's edge at Playa Santa Cruz, is a casual, friendly place serving lobster, ceviche, shrimp and other seafood dishes.Airy, colorfully decorated El Sabor de Oaxaca, Avenida Guamúchil #206 in La Crucecita (just east of the plaza, in the Hotel Las Palmas), features such regional fare as chicken in mole sauce, tlayudas (big corn tortillas with cheese and other toppings), chiles rellenos (stuffed chiles) and tamales. Café Huatulco is on the plaza in Santa Cruz (near the marina). It serves a variety of caffeinated concoctions utilizing good locally grown coffee, and also sells whole beans.
As far as nightlife goes, most of the hotels have their own bars, and the bigger ones stage Mexican Fiesta nights. Note: Finding a cab late at night can be difficult. Make any necessary arrangements for transportation back to your hotel before stepping out for the evening.
One local hangout that has been around awhile is the La Crema Bar, Calle Gardenia #311 (on the main plaza in La Crucecita, across from the Hotel La Flamboyant). You can't miss the guitar-playing dude hanging from the outside of the building. The inside is colorful and kitschy, with a bar serving everything from cervezas to tequila shots. Loud rock and occasional live bands draw a young crowd, but the festive atmosphere is fun for all ages, and the bar is a good place to mingle with locals.
Visitor Centers
Huatulco Hotel and Motel Association Blvd. Benito Juarez Bahías de Huatulco, OX . Phone:(958)581-0486 or (866)416-0555