NATIONAL PARK

Chichen Itza, Yucatán

Northern Zone

Chichén Itzá is remarkable for both monumental scope and architectural variety. The ruins consist of two complexes connected by a dirt path. Generally speaking, the older southern section contains mostly Mayan ruins and the structures in the northern section combine Mayan and Toltec influences, although the blending of pre-Hispanic cultures is apparent throughout. The militaristic Toltec influence is evident in the images—jaguars, sharp-taloned eagles, phalanxes of marching warriors, feathered serpents—employed to decorate the exteriors of pyramids and temples.

El Castillo dominates the other Northern Zone ruins sprinkled over a level, grassy area. That this pyramid's builders were mathematically precise in their construction is borne out by a natural phenomenon that occurs at the spring and fall equinoxes (on or around Mar. 21 and Sept. 21). As the sun begins its descent, the shadows cast by the terraces on the north staircase form the body of a serpent, whose actual sculpted head rests at the base of the stairs. In the spring, the serpent appears to be slithering down the stairs; in the fall, the illusion is reversed. Note: Visitors from around the world attend this semiannual event, and although it is well worth seeing, expect large and boisterous crowds.

El Castillo also is deceptively steep; the large stone steps ascend to the top at a 45-degree angle. Visitors have traditionally been able to climb the 100-foot-tall pyramid using the staircases on three of its sides, with most people climbing the steps on the western side (the side you see as you first enter the site). But because of erosion to the steps and a fatality that occurred in 2006, the base is roped off and climbing is not permitted on the pyramid or any other structure at the site.

Temples are at both ends of the ball court near El Castillo. The temple at the northern end has a short stairway ascending to two columns supporting a roof. It retains only a few remnants of its former murals and sculptures. The Temple of the Jaguars, at the southeastern corner of the ball court, has columns carved in the shape of serpents and panels depicting jaguars and Mayan warriors.

Just east of the ball court is the Temple of the Skulls (Tzompantli), decorated in macabre fashion with rows of human skulls. This artistic rendering reflects the gruesome act of human sacrifice that was integral to Mayan religious rites, as the heads of victims were often stuck on the ends of poles. The adjacent Platform of the Eagles and Jaguars has carvings showing these creatures grasping human hearts. A short distance east of this structure and north of El Castillo is the Platform of Venus, which has depictions of a feathered serpent (a reference to the god Quetzalcóatl) holding a human head in its mouth. Serpent carvings ascend the stairways.

Just south of the Temple of the Warriors are the partially restored remains of what archeologists believe were steam baths and a market complex. Further to the southeast are unrestored mounds of rubble beneath the trees.

Central Zone

The southern complex of ruins (often mistakenly referred to as Old Chichén), accessible from the northern complex via a short dirt pathway, consists of mostly Mayan ruins. The first structure you come to is the Ossuary (High Priest's Grave), thought to be a burial ground. This partially reconstructed pyramid is topped with the remains of a temple and has distinctive serpent head carvings at the base. Its interior (not open to the public) leads to an underground cave in which human skeletons and offerings have been found.

Across the path and south of this pyramid is El Caracol, an astronomical observatory dating from the 10th century that may have been one of the last Mayan buildings erected at this site.

East of El Caracol a winding path leads north through dense underbrush to the Cenote Xtoloc. Unlike the Sacred Cenote, this well was not used for human sacrifice; it provided Chichén with its drinking water. South of El Caracol is the Nunnery (Casa de Las Monjas), so named by the Spaniards because it reminded them of a European convent. This large complex has exquisitely carved facades of animals, flowers and designs that are reminiscent of latticework. Next to the Nunnery is The Church (La Iglesia), also named by the Spanish. While it in no way resembles a church, this small building is lavishly decorated, primarily with beak-nosed carvings of Chac.

The exterior carvings on the Temple of the Carved Panels (Templo de Los Tableros Esculpidos), east of the Nunnery, are more difficult to discern, but may refer to Toltec warrior symbology. A rough path, also beginning east of the Nunnery, runs through the scrub for several hundred feet to the Akab-Dzib, a classically designed Mayan temple believed to be one of Chichén Itzá's oldest structures. Traces of red handprints are faintly visible in some of the interior rooms, and above one doorway are carved Mayan hieroglyphics that have yet to be deciphered.

General Information

Arrangements to join a group tour aboard a first-class bus can be made in Mérida, about 120 kilometers (75 miles) west, and Cancún, about 200 kilometers (125 miles) east. A group tour eliminates the hassle of driving but can make for a long, hectic day and requires sticking to a rigid schedule. Gray Line Cancún Tours offers a day trip package that includes round-trip transportation from Cancún or Mérida, guide service, park admission, a buffet lunch and a swim at a local cenote—a nice refresher after touring the hot, humid site. For reservations information phone (998) 887-2495 (in Mexico) or (800) 719-5465 (toll-free from the United States).

The ruins are a few miles south of the Chichén Itzá exit off Mex. 180-D; Yuc. 79 is the local road. One of the highway's two toll plazas is at this exit; from Cancún the tolls total around 325 pesos. You'll first pass through the small town of Pisté, on Mex. 180 about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) west of the Chichén Itzá entrance. Here there are budget accommodations, restaurants and basic travel services for those who prefer to stay overnight. Taxi service also is available from Pisté to the site entrance. Several more upscale hotels are located east (and within walking distance) of the southern complex of ruins.

Chichén Itzá can be explored on your own or as part of a group led by a staff guide. A guide isn't necessary to appreciate the grandeur of the major landmarks, however, and information plaques in Spanish and English give a general architectural and historical background.

If you're visiting on your own, begin early in the morning if possible, before it gets too hot and the tour buses begin arriving. Wear a hat or other headgear and sturdy walking shoes. Bring bottled water and/or snacks as well as insect repellent for any extended walking excursions. Two to three hours is enough to see everything, although archeology buffs could easily spend the entire day.

A sound-and-light show is presented nightly. The ruins are bathed in colored lights, and Spanish narration recounts the history of and legends associated with the site. Headsets in several languages can be rented. Confirm the start time at the visitor center ticket window. There are occasional performances by big-name international musical stars as well.

The visitor center at the main entrance has an information desk (where admission tickets are purchased); a small museum; an air-conditioned auditorium, Chilam Balam, where an audiovisual presentation is shown; and a bookstore, restaurant and restrooms. There also are restrooms off the path between the northern and central zone complexes.

Food is available. Site open daily 8-5 (last admission at 4:30). Sound-and-light show begins at 7 or 8 p.m. (depending on season) and lasts about 45 minutes. Archeological zone admission (includes museum) 225 pesos (about $10.72 U.S.). Sound-and-light show admission 212 pesos. Parking fee 30 pesos. Video camera fee 45 pesos. Phone (985) 851-0137.